R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
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Autor Thema: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia  (Gelesen 25824 mal)

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bwprice100

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #300 am: 11 August 2018, 16:06:33 »

Hi Graham
I also found that the new clutch cable I bought from Ulis was too short. I was able to remove a few inches from the outer sleeve to get it to work but worried about it being non standard.
I think l have an original one somewhere so i will have to measure it.

Brian

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #300 am: 11 August 2018, 16:06:33 »

grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #301 am: 12 August 2018, 14:53:31 »

Interesting comment Brian, I borrowed a new clutch cable today to check against my new one and it is identical to the new one and the one that was on the bike has a casing that is 75mm longer than the new one. My old brake cable casing is 50mm longer than the new one so it looks as though I will have to make some cables.

In between borrowing cables and looking after one of my sons two idiot dogs I didn't get a lot done on the bike.

I wasn't happy using nuts and bolts to hold the Power Dynamo Regulator and Advance Unit in place so I fitted some rivnuts (or clinch nuts) to the backing plate to hold these two items in position. I reversed the rivnuts for the Advance Unit so that the flush side of the rivnut was on the back of the backing plate to provide clearance for the rear mudguard. This had the advantage of of providing a 8mm stud length on the mounting side which compensated for the curve in the backing plate which was an expected bonus.

I had to extend the two Power Dynamo black AC wires so they were long enough to reach where I was mounting the regulator and that is all I managed to finish today.

All simple stuff and a couple of photos are below.
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rolf

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #302 am: 12 August 2018, 18:48:34 »

Graham,
do you a favor and take a long(er) nut for the valve cavers....than you haven´t to take away  your gasoline tank by inspecting the valve clearanc
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #303 am: 12 August 2018, 22:21:36 »

like such:
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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #304 am: 13 August 2018, 15:00:24 »

I was going to put a standoff spacer on the rod and followed by the nut but the longer nut is a good idea and worth thinking about.

No work done on the bike today - I was busy converting an old car radio to AM/FM/Bluetooth/Handsfree which is a little sideline I do from time to time and also fixed a leak on the roof of my wifes home Hairdressing Salon that I built 25 years ago.

Talking about oils; what is everyones preferred oil to use in these old clunkers - good old fashioned mineral oil, four stroke motorcycle oil with additives or Synthetic oil and do you put the same oil in all three holes?

I think BMW recommended mineral oil for all three holes but in later years went to a hypoid gear oil for the rear drive unit and maybe the gearbox. Personally I like to use the same oil in all three holes and was thinking along the lines of synthetic or the four stroke motorcycle oil. What do you guys use and what are the pros and cons of each as you see it?
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OldsCool!

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #305 am: 13 August 2018, 15:14:22 »

Hi Graham,

due to the fact that we usually do not have an oil filter, we want to keep all residuals in the sump. Modern oils have additives that intend to keep all dirt floating to reach the filter and stay there. Not intended for us! Therefore, try to get an oil with least amount of additives/mineral. Similar for the gearbox and reardrive. Modern stuff will ruin the non-ferrous metals in our oldschool drive. I do not use hypoid oil, but the one Bernd has recommended as our "god of gearbox". If he does not comment himself, I'll look it up next week when I am back home from holidays.

BR

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #306 am: 13 August 2018, 15:55:23 »

Graham, just to alert you: By asking for oil-recommendations you hit a wasp nest !
This is the top fierce discussed subject ever !
One party is convinced of using single grade mineral oil (e.g. SAE 40) without any additives (due to Steffen's explanation),
the other party uses cheap, multigrade DIY-Store mineral oil ( e.g. 15 W 40) and argues: If the motor was rebuilt and clean inside ( the centrifuge on the crankshaft),
and with frequent oil-changes as recommended by BMW, you don't have to worry about floating dirt.
Then again we have some guys, which use high-grade synthetic oils....
hard to give a general recommedation - it depends on each individual engine-status, environmental conditions and driving style.
For my own experience, I started with multigrade, cheap DIY 15-W40 in the eighties, after the motor was rebuilt, then switched over to single grade SAE W40.
But it bothered me to remove the oil-pan every 2 or 3 oil-services to clean the inside off, and also this "compressor-oil" is very sticky, like hot tar.
It was no fun adjusting the valve clearance with everything sticking.
Now i switched back to 10-W40 since the last oil-service.
You can also use this for the gearbox and rear-drive, it woun't do no harm. But some say a GL3-specification gear-oil is better and appropriate for the latter two applications. We will see what the following posts recommend.

Regards,
Sascha
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Anulu

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #307 am: 13 August 2018, 16:17:50 »

I heard Oil.
Pleace wait! I need Chips an Beer....
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #308 am: 13 August 2018, 19:58:31 »

The rear drive is not a hypoid drive....GL 4 and higher have some additives which damages your copper, bronce (?..in German: Buntmetall) inside the gearbox and reardrive
I can recommend the Book: "which oil?"  from Richard Michell, Veloce publishing....after reading this book I was astonished that my knowledge about oil is not up to date( it is from the eightys...last century ;D)....before reading I said the same as oldschool
read this and find your own opinion....i am tired to say always the same about oil
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bwprice100

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #309 am: 13 August 2018, 20:01:24 »

The rear drive is not a hypoid drive....GL 4 and higher have some additives which damages your copper, bronce (?..in German: Buntmetall) inside the gearbox and reardrive
I can recommend the Book: "which oil?"  from Richard Michell, Veloce publishing....after reading this book I was astonished that my knowledge about oil is not up to date( it is from the eightys...last century ;D)....before reading I said the same as oldschool
read this and find your own opinion....i am tired to say always the same about oil
Hi Rolf

Do you have a link to where l could get this book, is it in English?

Thanks Brian

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Schorsch

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #310 am: 13 August 2018, 20:44:52 »

Brian,

please excuse me, my Englisch is a Horror!

I have this Book in German.

In the Book is a notice

Originaltitel: „Which Oil ?“
Middle Farm Way
Dorchester DTI JAR
England



c Richard Michell Andy Veloce Publishing Ltd 2011

Schorsch
« Letzte Änderung: 13 August 2018, 20:46:34 von Schorsch »
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #311 am: 13 August 2018, 20:50:35 »

Brian,

please excuse me, my Englisch is a Horror!

I have this Book in German.

In the Book is a notice

Originaltitel: „Which Oil ?“
Middle Farm Way
Dorchester DTI JAR
England



c Richard Michell Andy Veloce Publishing Ltd 2011

Schorsch
Thanks Schorsch

I have found it on Amazon and ordered the last copy. :)

Brian

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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #312 am: 14 August 2018, 11:00:25 »

Yes, talking about oils is always a slippery subject and can lead to some robust discussions! I have enjoyed Veteran and Vintage engines and machinery for 50 years or so and have never come across an engine damaged by modern oils and sometimes wonder if it is all a marketing con, however I am always interested in other opinions hence the question.

To continue the oil discussion, I service a few Harleys for friends and HD recommend their own oil for the engine and a separate oil for the chaincase and gearbox.......but also say you can run a diesel oil in the engine......however they also recommend HD Syn3 (which is a blended mineral synthetic mix) for the engine, chaincase and gearbox; mmm different options from the manufacturer. Other guys I know run ATF in the HD chaincase and gearbox and others run a red heavy duty hypoid oil in the gearbox and all claim smooth gear changes etc. My own experience is that all HD's have a stiff clunky gearchange regardless what oil is used which tells me that the oil makes no difference and none of them suffer any damage and the engine runs hot whatever oil you use so who knows....all smoke and mirrors I reckon.

I use Penrite oils in my Stationary engines and 1926 Chrysler (before I sold it) and will probably use Penrite Classic in the R26 - I don't know if Penrite is sold in Europe.

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/brands/classic?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8nbBRBnEiwAqWt1zRYleTxizntuCCY3i3Ypi8JLsRAlsFnjvGX38FODzyjdUwuEIpQMtRoCj-sQAvD_BwE

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/community/posts/hughesy-and-039-s-tech-tip-penrite-and-039-s-vintage-veteran-and-amp-classic-engine-oils-part-2

I have also used Lucas oil which seems ok

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #313 am: Gestern um 15:08:30 »

I modified the headlight globe holder today and made up a new clutch cable to replace the new one that was too short.

There were two ways I could have gone to fit the H4 globe to the headlight reflector:

1. Drill a couple of small holes in the body of the H4 and hold it in place with a spring clip and lose the Park Light or;

2. Modify the existing base and keep the functionality of the Park Light

I went for option 2 which turned out to be pretty easy.

I removed the bakelite lamp contact board and cut out the lamp holder so that the H4 globe would fit inside the holder. The small side tabs on the metal base had to be cut out along with two small vertical slots cut into the bottom to allow the H4 base to locate and a tab cut into the top to accommodate the top H4 Tab and it was also necessary to bend the bottom tabs on the H4 globe to fit inside the original base. I bent the ends of a spring to lock into the small holes on the reflector where the original spring clip was fitted and the spring wrapped around the base of the H4 globe to keep it securely in place and soldered the  Park globe  into the original location. Wiring was simple with some 8mm spade terminals and a solder connection for the Park light.
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #314 am: Gestern um 15:13:01 »

These photos show the general wiring of the modified base, operating head light and current draw for the 60/55w H4 Globe.
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #315 am: Gestern um 18:52:15 »

Is it 6 or 12 Volts ?

Regards,
Sascha
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R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #316 am: Gestern um 19:08:37 »

Ähh....

Hast gesehen, oder?



UPD,s haben immer 12V ( wenn der Regler nicht kaputt ist )
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #317 am: Gestern um 19:22:20 »

Dödel ! 'türlich Ampere. Das kleine "A" im Display hab ich zwar nicht gesehen, aber dass Strom auf english "current draw" heisst, war mir klar.
Genau deswegen die Frage nach der Spannung. Eben um kurz zu überschlagen, ob so'ne Birne das "zieht", was draufsteht.
Nur UPD hatte ich nicht auf dem Schirm. Dann zieht das Fernlicht fast 70 Watt - siehsse !  da spielen wohl noch ein paar Übergangswiderstände im Schalter eine Rolle.
 :-*

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