R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

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grahamjb

Nickle plating update
I am going to have to remove all of the old chrome from the handle to make it look ok so stay tuned for the next attempt.

The photos below are acid cleaning the damper handle and shaft, damper in the nickle solution, nickled shaft came up ok but the damper handle looks crappy.

grahamjb



grahamjb

Also pressed in some new silent blocks into the rear shock carriers today and started panel beating the battery holder base to fit the cover shape.

Photos below are of old and new silent blocks in the rear shock carrier and the battery holder base before and after some light manipulation

grahamjb

Didn't get much done on the bike today in between golf and other jobs but I did manage to have another go at the steering damper. I removed the few remaining spots of chrome and re-nickle plated it. I haven't finished polishing up the shaft or the bottom half of the damper but the top is looking nice. Always nice when you can do things yourself.

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 11 Januar 2018, 15:17:33
Didn't get much done on the bike today in between golf and other jobs but I did manage to have another go at the steering damper. I removed the few remaining spots of chrome and re-nickle plated it. I haven't finished polishing up the shaft or the bottom half of the damper but the top is looking nice. Always nice when you can do things yourself.

Looks very nice and a job well done.  :applaus:

What are the drawings in the background?

Brian

grahamjb

Brian - The plans are Bad Bob Motors Sedan & Coupe which are plans for toy cars for kids available from www.toymakingplans.com

The attached picture is of "Bad Bob Sedan" which I have just cut out...timber is Tasmanian Oak, Jarrah and Pine.

Spent more time cleaning up bits and pieces on the bike today, fixed a dent in the rear rim, removed the tyres from the rims and polished up the front top shock absorber holders (seen sitting on top of the rim) and then gave the shed a bit of a clean.

Am having some unexpected issues with the nickle plating resulting in black spots appearing at the edges of the damper handle.

It is going to be 37 degrees tomorrow so I won't be working on the bike.......going surfing instead  ;D


grahamjb

Back from the beach after getting dumped by big waves so I thought I would see how long I could stay in my shed where the temperature was reading 43 degrees.....lasted long enough to remove the gap on my lathe bed and check that I will be able to skim the brake drum on the wheels; see photo below.

Off to have some cold beer now  ;D

grahamjb

#66
Still need to finish off the welds

grahamjb

#67
Stop Plate wear before TIG welding and can someone tell me what the bracket is for in the last photo. I have had to weld up a fatigue crack and some elongated holes on this bracket and cannot remember where it fits on the bike

bwprice100


grahamjb


grahamjb

Filed down the TIG welds and polished up the shock carriers as well as turning down the TIG welds on the stop plates

Herculestom

Graham,

this looks (I won't say the f-word in public) awesome!!! Probably better than ever before.  :respekt: I seriously feel now I must also waste some time to polish the one or the other thing on my bike. Winter is coming soon  ;)

Honest congrats from the African bush
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Thanks Tom, I still have to repair the Aluminium shock covers and polish them but I am going to tackle the wheels next

GB

grahamjb

Have decided to respoke the wheels and polish up the rims and hubs. Brian from England has provided me with good advice and as a result I had a closer look at the rims today after golf and one is spoked correctly and one isn't!

The photos below are self explanatory

grahamjb

More photos

grahamjb

A slow day on the bike today with no pictures to show.

Still polishing the hubs and counting the number of radial cracks on the rims near the spokes that I will have to weld up. Also started to grind down the welds on the front mudguard....

GB

bwprice100

Technical correction.

Brian is in Wales not England.

:)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb


grahamjb

It is too hot to work in my shed so I am going to the beach for a surf

I did manage to make this "hi tech" bracket for the Earles Fork this morning so that I can use it to true the wheels when I re-spoke them


grahamjb

Back from the beach because there are no waves today so I did some more work on the hubs

grahamjb

#80
Too hot to work in the shed today so I went for a ride to Jurien Bay which is a small fishing town 222km north of Perth with a mate for lunch and to check out a huge private collection of Vincent, Dougless, Rudge Whitworth, Royal Enfield, Norton and BSA motorcycles. The owner has one of every model Vincent ever made!

I could only spot one BMW and that is in the photo behind me.

More about this lovely collection of motorbikes here https://carpyscaferacers.com/amazing-collection-vincents/


grahamjb

Still cleaning the hubs and rims and getting one rim ready for welding the radial cracks near the spoke holes....have got 17 to weld up.

A couple of photos showing the small radial cracks attached below

There won't be an update for a week or so because the wife wants to go away for a weeks holiday



bwprice100

Those cracks are worrying, well spotted.

Brian

Kurt in S.A.

Wouldn't cracks across the rim be more of a concern than these?  What are the forces that are driving these cracks?  Over tightening of the spokes?

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

grahamjb

These cracks will increase in length if not welded and yes Kurt, I reckon they are because the spokes were too tight.

It is Australia day here in Western Australia which means a fair bit of eating and drinking with not much work being done, however I managed to get a bit done on the bike.

Started to weld up the cracks on the inside of the rim before doing the face side of the rim to relieve some of the stress in the Al - the photos below are typical of the welds before dressing.

Decided to remove the wheel bearings and as you can see from the photo the holes on the retaining plate have been butchered previously. I made up a simple tool that located in the four holes to make removal of the retaining plate easy.

grahamjb

When I removed the retaining plate the nearside bearing collapsed which was unexpected.

Also made up a brass drift to drive out the other bearing and spacer

grahamjb

Haven't done much on the bike over the past few days because the wife wanted me to re-upholster some of our furniture and as we all know, a happy wife makes for a happy life.....and I won't be doing much this week due to riding and golf commitments

A couple more photos of the other wheel bearing from the hub and you will also see that both bearing cups have spun in the hub. A different wear profile for each bearing is also evident on the bearing cups which may due to insufficient lubrication on one bearing.
 


rolf

To remove the inner parts of the Hub it is better and easier to use the axle.
Put it into the Hub, make a Tube which goes until the thread of the axle, fix it with the screw nut.
than warm up the bearing bush until 100-120° C (a drop of water will cook at once)
the take a hammer and with little beatings upon the nut the whole inner parts comes out....together and in line.....build it together:same procedere

grahamjb

Thanks for the tip on disassembling the hub Rolf

Cheers
GB

rolf


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