R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

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grahamjb

Good idea painting the inside of the headlight fellas especially for us old buggers with failing eyesight  :)

I did some painting today but it was black and not white so the inside of my headlight is still black.

Painted the Switch Covers, Airfilter, Horn, and Drive shaft rubber steel ring thing and the bit that goes into it - also repainted the petrol tank Tool Box cover because I wasn't happy with the first attempt when a Bee got stuck in the wet paint.

Photo below including the reflection from my shed lights.

grahamjb



grahamjb

Fitted the drive shaft to the rear drive unit today and mounted it up on the bike - also made a spring for the fork lock.

Photos below


grahamjb

A question for the brains trust if I may.

Q. The exploded parts diagrams that I have from various suppliers shows 2 x wave washers at the rear of the crankshaft (one washer either side of the rear bearing) except for the Salis exploded diagram that only shows 1 x wave washer between the crank and the rear bearing....so is it one or two wave washers and if it is two wave washers, are they compressed flat after fitting the rear crank bearing and flywheel?

Cheers
GB

bwprice100

It was so long ago when I did the motor on my R26 I can't remember but l would suspect 2 would mot do any harm.

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Thanks for the reply Brian, I will go for the two washers.

My bearing/slinger spacer arrived today and when I went to slide it on the crankshaft I found the one that I had lost previously which I had put on the crankshaft so I wouldn't lose it...... :kopfhau:

Welded a big fat washer onto the end of some 36mm ID pipe and turned the hole out to 31mm - this piece of pipe will now fit over both ends of the crankshaft so that I can press the bearings on.

Also reassembled the handlebar switch blocks and put them on the bike.

Photos below


bwprice100

Looking good.

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Made a bit of progress on the bottom end of the engine today after receiving advice on how to check the flywheel position on the crankshaft.

Drilled some holes in some scrap plate and bolted the flywheel to it; then I fitted a wave washer, the rear bearing and bolted the crankshaft to the flywheel at the recommended torque of 125 foot pounds. I then checked the clearance between the rear of the crankshaft bearing and the front of the flywheel which was measured at 0.88mm which is good as it will allow the rearmost wave washer to fit nicely.

More photos and info on next page

Photos below

grahamjb

Assembled the bearings and other fittings on to the crankshaft and fitted the assembly to the crankcase - will hopefully get time tomorrow to do some more.

Photos below

grahamjb

#278
Didn't get as much done today as I wanted to - Installed the rear crankshaft wave washer, rear oil seal, made up some locking tabs for the flywheel, installed the flywheel, Camshaft and Cam chain (fitting the cam chain link was a PITA and I found it fiddly to fit)

I went to install the cam chain tensioner and discovered that the cam chain tensioner I had purchased some time ago is only the tensioner arm that presses against the chain - I need to buy the cam chain tension spring and the stepped bolts to mount the two items...argh I will order the necessary parts tomorrow as I am going to have a beer now!

Photo of the flywheel and cam below

grahamjb

Didn't do a lot today as I was given a list of other jobs that the bride wanted me to do......

However I managed to check the cam timing with a degree wheel and fit the oil pump minus the screen as I have to get some longer 6mm bolts to allow for the filter spacer block because I will be using a deeper sump.

Photos below

OldsCool!

Hi Graham,
still enjoying watching your progress in every detail step by step with biggest respect about what you mill out of nothing in case somethings broken.
Can't wait to see you on the street.

best regards,

Steffen
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

Jollyjester

Hello Graham

Like very many, I follow your rebuild will interest, and admire your engineering skills.  I attach hopefully??  The camshaft and A chain tensioner that is readily available from all the usual suspects and really a must.

As you can see, and all this was done in the 1970s, the cam wheel has been drilled and lightened also polished.

The camshaft, had RE ground to more sporty profiles to more less match that the R50 S.  I cannot remember the exact timings now, without looking up, but the inlet certainly opens perhaps 15 - 20°before TDC, and the overlap on the valves is quite large.

The piston is an R50 S, 9.5 -1 and the inlet tracked open out as much as I could, with an 1. 1/8th on Amal. Monobloc.

£6/10/0 from BSA when they went into liquidation, these now are only £189.

The small end bush had to be opened out from 18 MM to take a 20 MM pin.  There was enough metal in the connecting rolled to permit this, and it is run in this condition since then.

You will notice a slot cut in the end of the secured bolt, on the camshaft center, this is to pick up the drive from a rev counter.

That part was also ex BSA.  These engines like to rev, and this one I have seen just on 7000 RPM but that was downhill.

Considering this is 1951 basic technology, and it's still going today, not bad.  And also great fun

In the sixties I was young and stupid, know on the same but a lot older.

At that period of time, of there was a BMW club member, the name of Vic Doswell.  He loved the singles, and was very well respected by BMW, who actually loaned him a  potential as 350cc, R28 to road test, he used in trials ( mud & water etc ), it also had the revised suspension, with Tele forks and a correct rear swing arm.  Why I mention all this, I recently came across a letter he sent to me, handwritten of course in those days, about his exploits with an R26 that he'd lightened to use in high speed trials.  He rode and Silverstone and the like, but said it would certainly keep up with the best of the two fifties in those days, Royal Enfield made quite a nifty 250.

I have transcribed his letter, and will put it on this forum for the benefit of everyone to read, his first line was, " remember these a very heavy bikes to start with", but his words of wisdom were true then and still are today.

But the bottom line is, we're all having lots of fun, and we're not hurting anyone only release our selves if we overcook it on a bend.

grahamjb

Thanks for the comments guys - Living in Australia is a disadvantage when it comes to buying parts for European bikes and being able to drop around and have a chat with owners of similar bikes; I like the Tacho drive modification; don't know if I want to be riding one of these bikes reving at 7,000 RPM but wow, 7,000 revs is pretty impressive.

I have ordered the timing chain tensioner kit which I expect will take two weeks or so to arrive which will give me time to clean up my shed and do some maintenance work on my old Ute.

Found some 6mm long bolts and fitted the oil pump strainer and spacer along with a new aluminium sump which is not a great fit (about 2.5mm too long) but a blind man would be glad to see it.

Went to fit the piston and barrel and accidentally damaged the barrel gasket  :kopfhau: while adjusting the push rod tubes that are a friction fit into the barrel  ....Made a new barrel gasket and a brass drift to knock the push rod tubes into place before fitting the piston. Did a trial fit of the gudgeon pin retaining clips and guess what, they are too small and fall through the piston  :kopfhau: I am amazed that the retaining clips supplied with the new piston are the incorrect size but then again, this bike keeps throwing up challenges ! I used the original retaining clips to hold the gudgeon pin in place, fitted the barrel and head and adjusted the tappets.

Did a cam timing recheck using the degree wheel now that the rocker gear is fitted and I am of the opinion that this bike has a R27 Cam grind or similar...who knows.

Some photos below.


grahamjb

A couple more photos showing the undersize gudgeon pin clips and the head fitted.


4Taktix

Robert,
can you post a picture of the inside of the timing chain cover? I'm curious for details on the rev-counter drive.

Cheers,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

grahamjb

Realised that my motor didn't have a breather tube so I decided to make one.

I didn't have any suitable size tube but determined that the old brace from the front mudguard would be about the correct size. This brace was bent and uneven after numerous repairs but I managed to get it roughly round and turned down one end to fit inside the front cover on the engine.

I then went around to a mates house to use his pipe bender to bend it to shape and wasn't all that happy with the finished bend so my mate offered to turn down some 20mm OD aluminium tube so that we could make a breather tube out of aluminium instead of steel.

Photos below and on the next page and are self explanatory as usual



grahamjb

The finished tube is a bit long and the bend angle is too acute so I have a bit more work to do while I wait for the timing chain tensioner to arrive.

I also fitted the clutch today.

Photos below

Jollyjester

Rev Counter Drive.

I do not have a photograph of the inside of the timing chest cover.

The cover was drilled through. taped to match the thread on the Brass fitting shown in the photograph.  This was screwed in, with some sealant around it and locks in place by the nut outside.  It has never leaked oil

The part that of turns the inner drive cable, is a snug fit inside the Brass unit, formed square at one end to take the cable the other end is milled into a flat spade, that fits into the slot in the end of the camshaft drive and there's a tiny circlip that prevents, the inner part from falling out through the front.

By carefully measuring how far the Brass unit is screwed in, this secures the inner part with a little free play to turn, but not to rub on the drive nut, the ratio is a 2-1 anti clockwise.

The rev counter I had in those days, I think was out of a MG car, it was about the size of a Vincent speedometer, 5 inches diameter mounted on the handlebar, so the drive cable was only about two 2ft 6 ins long.

It was on there for at least 10 years, when I sold the bike in 85, but not when I bought it back in 2009.

In that time the Norton front wheel had been sold, because it would not stop!!  With the BMW wheel, and the rev counter was also gone.

In that 24 years' absence, it and sat in a museum in the motorcycle shop in St Albans, Clarks in London Rd.  When Tony Clark ceased trading he took the bike with him and a number of others, include a Velo Thruxton, DBD 34 BSA, a Rudge Multi and 1907 Premier

during it's holiday with Tony, the engine was never fired, or run, or ridden.  When I got it back, in 2009 turned  the engine over a bit, push up and down the drive without the spark plug in, it started third kick.

after about 5 minutes, there was a cry of anguish, scream!  coming from the gearbox. so I did not run anymore.  Took the gearbox off, and decided the dogs were dry.  tipped the gearbox upside down or different ways, to get some oil around in it put it back on, started again no trouble, road up and down the road ( illegally ) and then decided to do a complete restoration, that took approximately five years, has been ongoing for the last couple, can I think I've really done it cracked now.

I'm sure Graham, you can sort out a way to make a little drive along the lines I said.

I've tried to find something on google, a photograph of the drive, a but nothing unless I troll through pages of triumph exploded engine diagrams

grahamjb

Jollyjester,
Thanks for the interesting story about your old bike and it will be good to get it back on the road....I wish I still had my first motorbike which was a modified Honda Dream that was used for racing.

It is 4TAKTIX who is after more information on the tachometer drive arrangement that you used on your bike; I have no plans to fit a tachometer to my little R26 and if I did, I would use an electronic one.

I have come to a standstill on my bike while I wait for the timing chain tensioner to arrive apart from finishing the headlight wiring and deciding if I should attempt the tank and mudguard line striping or pay some one to do it. I have a pretty steady hand but don't fancy myself as a line striper.

Cheers for now

grahamjb

The Timing Chain Tensioner arrived today which I duly fitted along with the Power Dynamo Magneto. I also changed the breather pipe to a shorter design and fitted it to the front cover. AFter I lifted the engine into the frame I noticed that there were two nuts on the front engine cover that were going to foul on the frame. These nuts were on studs that I had put into the engine casing as I wanted a uniform look to the front engine cover....now I know why there were some bolts fitted in lieu of studs. So out with the studs and in with a couple of bolts and all is good.

Photos below and on the next page.

grahamjb

These photos show the engine back in the frame

bwprice100

Can't wait to see it finished.

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Me too Brian, it is hard to go into my shed at the moment because it is cold and raining but some hot cups of coffee and tea help - should get the gearbox in tomorrow

4Taktix

You're blessed Graham - we're sweatin bullits in germany, for the last 4 weeks - almost 100 deg Fahrenheit / 38 Ceslsius.
Even the big Rivers are on very low tide gauge, like seldom before.
Maybe this is business as usual in down under, over here it almost paralyses everyday business.
DIY-Stores sell inflatable pools like popcorn and the established beer brands were out of empty bottles.....  8) :prost:

Cheers,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

grahamjb

Yeah, you guys are doing it tough at the moment - my wife and I were recently in Croatia, Malta, Turkey and Greece where it was pretty warm and my eldest son has just returned from touring Britain and Europe and he said it was hot.
I worked in the UK 40 years ago and 30 degrees UK felt like 40 degrees does in Australia....your heat wave is balanced by our current cold snap where it got down to 4 degrees last night and today is forecast to be sunny but a freezing 16 degree maximum, brrr

Herculestom

Hi Graham,
don't worry. You are not alone. We see the same arctic temperatures for the moment. Luckily the August winds have set in and the rainy season will kick in soon. In a week or two it'll start warming up again. I'm not made for this.
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

#296
It is 20 past 5 on Friday afternoon and it is a very cold 15 degrees....might have to zip up to Bali to thaw out for a few days.

Didn't get a lot done today because it was warmer inside the house than my shed however I fitted the gearbox and carby plus made a retaining pin for the clutch throwout lever pivot pin instead of using a split pin. The split pins that I had were too thin or too thick so I turned down a leftover 4mm SS spoke and put a 3mm nylock on one end. Looks a lot better than a split pin.

The next jobs will be to bolt the engine to the frame, finish off the wiring and fit the headlight.

Two photos are attached

Jollyjester

I note you have fitted a deep sump.  How much extra oil does this carry?

But one other thing, have you thought about making an extended oil dipstick to measure the actual level ?

Or, using the as supplied dipstick, does this work out that when the level has dropped to say half on that, you still have X amount of oil in the Sump.

Presumably, there is also an extension to lower the oil strainer inlet, otherwise it would just suck from the top.

Just a thought.

OldsCool!

Hi Jolly,

the deep sump kits usually contain an extension to be put between oil pump and intake to suck the oil from lower level/ same level with regards to bottom of the sump.
The dipstick remains the same to ensure no overfill. Of course you have more reserve compared to stock sump, as on minimum there is another litre left.

BR

Steffen
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

grahamjb

Nicely explained Steffen

Didn't get much done today - fitted the speedo cable and cover on the gearbox; found out that my new clutch cable and front brake cables are too short.... :kopfhau:

Have also decided to ditch the crappy headlight globe assy and replace it with a H4 globe - lets see what I can dream up to modify the original reflector to take a H4 globe.

Only one photo today

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