R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

« vorheriges - nächstes »

0 Mitglieder und 1 Gast betrachten dieses Thema.

|

grahamjb

That is my plan Steffen - I will make some bracing to go from the flywheel to the bracket.

Cheers
GB

grahamjb


grahamjb

Decided to have a go at seeing where I could mount the Power Dynamo Relay, Controller and Regulator.

This bike has been previously fitted with a separate ignition switch above the battery box which I will be retaining and even though you don't need to run a battery with the Power Dynamo, I have decided to fit a battery and I will wire the bike so that the headlights are always "on" which is required by Australian law on later bikes. 

A Lithium battery is the ideal choice as they don't self discharge, are lightweight and relatively small......however Lithium batteries don't like to be continuously discharged or overcharged and sometimes require a "Wake Up" discharge if they haven't been used for a while. I have ordered a small Lithium battery with inbuilt battery management to regulate the charging and the small size means that I can fit the battery and Power Dynamo parts inside the battery cover. If the battery needs to be "Woken Up" after a long period of inactivity, the headlight current draw when the bike is turned on will be sufficient to wake up the battery.

The first photo shows the battery I will be using, the second photo shows everything in position with a dummy battery and the third photo shows the battery cover fitted with the Power Dynamo parts inside inside.

Anulu

#242
Nice!
Did you realy need the Relaise??


Dont you have ,,Klemme 2"  (in english clamp?) on your Ignition Lock?


https://www.bmw-einzylinder.de/forum/index.php?topic=16884

Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

grahamjb

Gidday Anulu
Thank you for your reply and yes, you don't need the relay if you have a standard ignition/headlight switch which will earth the blue/white wire when switched off.

Unfortunately my bike doesn't have the original BMW ignition/headlight switch which has been replaced with a "Dummy" switch on the headlight for authenticity appearances. I looked at buying an original switch but after finding out the cost I decided it wasn't worth the money and will stick with the key operated switch that has been fitted on the frame above the battery box.

This means that the wiring of this bike will be nothing like the original and I will be using relays for the headlights, horn and immobiliser to minimise current draw through the handlebar switches.

This arrangement won't meet with everyone's approval however it will look original apart from the key operated switch which is the main thing.

Below are a couple of photos showing the key operated switch.





Anulu

Ah ok.

Ther is another Buck ( before you have to go to troubleshooting for a long time)
All 4 switches (from the ignitioncontrollbox) must be OFF!! ( for BMW )
The factory are delivered is "ON" ( for any twotakt-Motor

Look her ( not finished yet ) :


Sorry for me xxxxx-english

Hope you know what i mean.

Gruß Manuel
Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

Heiko

#245
Zitat von: Anulu am 07 Juli 2018, 08:04:10
(for any twotakt-Motor

Alter.... das ist geil....  :lol: sorry for that unqualified comment Manuel but this is great! For your Information: two-stroke engine  ;)
Ariel motorcycles... upon which the sun never sets.

cledrera

Du bist im Recht; nun sieh zu, wie du da wieder heraus kommst. (v. Chamisso)
Lieber Einzylinder als zwei Fallschirme (v. mir)

rolf

er kommt aus S.H.....er meinte Zwotaktmotor

bwprice100

Do we mean a 'wasted spark' engine?

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


OldsCool!

Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

bwprice100

Zitat von: OldsCool! am 07 Juli 2018, 20:07:33
Our four-strokes waste a spark, too  ;)
The R27 doesn't  ;)

Sent by me using tapety talky


OldsCool!

What do you do with all those safed sparks?  ::)
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

bwprice100


Anulu

#253
Zitat von: Heiko am 07 Juli 2018, 13:42:12
Alter.... das ist geil....  :lol: sorry for that unqualified comment Manuel but this is great! For your Information: two-stroke engine 

Thank you for the Information Heiko.

In Tokunft ward ikk nur no plattdüsch schreeben.
Dat is ne Mischung ud Englisch , Hochdütsch und Niederländisch.

Un ikk har dat daminomol Word extra gegockelt... und gockel sek dat heid: Twotackt
Basta!
Gockel hed wie Rolf, jümmers Recht!



Ich kann mit Kritik gut um und weiss um mein besch..... eidenes Englisch.
Dennoch fällt man bei der UPD gern auf die Werkseinstellung rein und das musste geschrieben werden bevor Frust entsteht!

Also was werd ich in Zukunft tun?
Richtig! Mir fehlt das Scharmgefühl-Gen und werd wenn nötig weiter mit google Translator posten.
Ätsch! Selber doof

@ Rolf. Richtig! SH nicht weiter östlich der Elbe!
Das heisst hier 2 (Zwei)
Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

Heiko

Ariel motorcycles... upon which the sun never sets.

cledrera

Du bist im Recht; nun sieh zu, wie du da wieder heraus kommst. (v. Chamisso)
Lieber Einzylinder als zwei Fallschirme (v. mir)

grahamjb

Thanks for the heads up about the dip switches Anulu.

I have been busy doing welding jobs for family and friends who always want welding done after you have cleaned up and put everything away.....argh!

The cylinder head now has new valve guides, new valves, new valve springs and retaining washers - I had to use the old valve guide retaining clips because the clips supplied with the new valve guides were too small. The cylinder has been bored and honed to suit the new piston and has also received a lick of black paint.

I have also fitted new bearings to the camshaft and am getting ready to start to put the motor back together.

Some photos below


Herculestom

Hi Brian,

looks very good. Did you ream the valve guides properly after installation? The clips would be less of a concern. Should work with the old ones.

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Tom - Yes the valve guides and valves have been correctly fitted, in fact the old valve guides showed signs of blow by between the head and outside of the guides.

Went to put the engine together today and ran into a missing part problem but firstly, I decided to pull the oil pump apart to check the gears and body clearances which were all very good as it turned out. What I did notice is that the oil pump had the wrong bolts/screws in the wrong holes which have now been fixed.

My missing part problem is that I can't find the spacer ring that goes between the crankshaft bearing and the oil slinger - this is a spacer with an internal taper and I am happy to make one as it would be quicker than buying one. So if any of you guys have the dimensions for this spacer ring it would be appreciated if you could let me know what the dimensions are. The part number is 17 on the Ulis diagram and part number 5 on the Salis diagram - BMW part #0016114, see attached photo.

Photo 1 is Salis Spacer Ring listing, Photo 2 is the oil pump before disassembly and photo 3 clearly shows where the countersunk screw fits

grahamjb

I have ordered a spacer ring and while I am waiting for it to arrive I will go and play some golf  ;D

grahamjb

While I am waiting for the crankshaft spacer ring I decided to put the headlight on and on checking the Generator and Neutral globes noticed that their globe holders are corroded.....another thing to fix which is not surprising. Also noticed that the yellow wire coming from the headlight switch has melted at some stage which will be another job to fix when I repaint the handlebar switch blocks.

Photos below

grahamjb

Repaired the Generator and Neutral lamp holders today by replacing them with gold plated minature Edison holders


grahamjb

Funny how there are always other little jobs to sort out

I looked at the speedometer and noticed that paint was flaking off the internal plastic rim which wasn't ideal. I removed the chrome ring and speedo glass and scraped off the flaking paint, reset the odometer to zero and put the speedo back together. I didn't repaint where the paint was flaking from as it is cosmetic and the Australian UV would make short work of any new paint.

Also noticed that the the brake rod hole on the foot brake lever was also worn so I knocked up a small 8mm bronze bush to centralise the pin.

Photos below

grahamjb

Have been doing stuff that takes forever and you have no output to show for it.....the joys of restoration.

Am still waiting for the spacer ring to put the motor back together and in the meantime have been trying a few different wiring options/configurations inside the headlight where wires are usually pushed together and shoved inside the headlight so that no one can see the mess....

Pulled the Headlight/Park light switch apart to find the cause of the melted yellow wire.... one of the switch sliders has been dislodged and was protruding from the switch body; the yellow wire had disconnected from the switch terminal because of a dry solder joint; the black wire has a dry joint and the blue/white wire has also partially melted with a bad solder joint and burnt switch contact.

This bike is still testing me!

My plan is to refurbish the switch block (and the other switch block as well) by repainting, replacing the wires and PVC sheath, correctly relocating the switch slider back inside the switch and using the unused switch contacts by turning the switch contact board upside down. This will be detailed in later posts after I have repainted the switch block housings.

The photos below show the condition of the switch/wiring and the mounting of the indicator can and high/low beam relays inside the headlight housing

grahamjb

Fixed the faulty headlight switch today by repairing the nylon slider block to stop the contact sliding out, using the unused switch contacts and fitting new wires.

This will be refitted once I have repainted the hand control body

A couple of photos below


Jollyjester

Perhaps the very best modification you can do to the headlight shell, is to paint the inside white!!

Then you can see exactly what you are doing and where all the wires are going.

I know this is has been a modification since at least the 1960s.  Or if you don't want to paint, fold a piece of white paper or card inside.


Taz

Karl, could we please add this to the Tipps und Tricks?
Ich hab noch nie einen Sarkasmus vorgetäuscht


auf Tour:

Zipfelreise (2019)
Cymru "Radnor Revivals" (2016)
Alba "Isle of Skye" (2013)
Austria Großglocknerhochalpenstrasse (2012)
Alba "Spittal of Glenshee" (2011)

bwprice100

Zitat von: Jollyjester am 19 Juli 2018, 08:48:40
Perhaps the very best modification you can do to the headlight shell, is to paint the inside white!!

Then you can see exactly what you are doing and where all the wires are going.

I know this is has been a modification since at least the 1960s.  Or if you don't want to paint, fold a piece of white paper or card inside.
Yes I agree Robert and here is one I prepared earlier.

Brian

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u4WH8mcsFAeQyUDa6

Sent by me using tapety talky


cledrera

 :applaus: :applaus:
Very smart Brian and Robert.

Tas,
you`re right:
ZitatKarl, could we please add this to the Tipps und Tricks?

Clemens
Du bist im Recht; nun sieh zu, wie du da wieder heraus kommst. (v. Chamisso)
Lieber Einzylinder als zwei Fallschirme (v. mir)

OldsCool!

How about Chrome? Then you can even see the backside of the wires  ;D
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

|

Similar topics (5)

Hauptmenü

Anleitungen & Bücher Baureihe Specials Startseite Vergleichsliste

Presse & Wissen

Bauzeiten & Stückzahlen Historisches Liste der BMW Modelle Presseberichte Prospekte & Plakate

Foren & Literatur

Bildergalerie Bildtafel-Suche Forum: Boxerforum Handbücher Servicedaten

Allgemeine Infos

Bildtafelsuche Glossar Impressum Kontakt Sitemap

Tipps & Service

Dienstleister Händler Märkte & Museen Tipps Verschleißteile & Werkzeuge