Advance Ignition Whit VAPE ignition

[Pederkr]

Hi there.

Please help.
My ignition is spot on the S mark when ideling, but when i rev the engine the F mark is at the bottom of the inspection hole.
This may explaine that i am lacking power in 4 gear betwen 80 - 100 km/h
The cdi unit is all in Off position

What to do, should i try rotating the ignition unit a little and i what direction, and how wil this afect my ideling and easy start of the engine.

I try to ilustrate, the F mark is even lower than this.

Peder (soon to be on the way to Germany  )

[Pederkr]

[Dappsull]

Not quite clear, which BMW you have. Did you use the ignition setting proposed by VAPE for your engine?

Cheers
D.

[Borgward]

Hi Peder,
according to experts in this forum your setting is just perfect for todays fuel
(means F mark at the bottom of the inspection hole instead of the middle)

[Pederkr]

Not quite clear, which BMW you have. Did you use the ignition setting proposed by VAPE for your engine?

Cheers
D.

Sorry R 26 from 1959. Yes i have seen the VAPE instructions.

I have tryed settings number 1 and settings number 4. I will try settings number 3

But it's like missing 10% i 4 gear full throttle.

"diese Kurven sind für die BMW 4-Takt Motoren geeignet:

1) 1,2,3,4 auf OFF: 9 Grad Frühzündung bis 1200 U/min und dann auf 38 Grad bei 3000 U/min

2) 1,2,3 auf OFF und 4 auf ON: 9 Grad Frühzündung bis 1200 U/min und dann auf 34 Grad bei 3000 U/min

3) 2,3,4 auf OFF und 1 auf ON: 9 Grad Frühzündung bis 1200 U/min und dann auf 38 Grad bei 5000 U/min

4) 2,4 auf OFF und 1,3 auf ON: 4 Grad Frühzündung bis 800 U/min und dann auf 34 Grad bei 2500 U/min und dann auf 40 Grad bei 3500 U/min"

[Anulu]

Na den Text kenn ich doch.
I drive with setting one.
R25/3

[Pederkr]

Hi Peder,
according to experts in this forum your setting is just perfect for todays fuel

Maybee i need some experts to push my R 26 up the Hill

Thank you for reply, but it seems that i am missing some power in the high range of revoulution.
My sparkplug is same coulor as a nut shell
New piston and bore "piston 69 m/m from Izetta"
New renovatet carb, and new Vape ignition.
When i was riding whit standard points and ignition, the bike could do 105 km/h but now whit Vape no more than 95 km/h
That leads me to belive that the lack of power must be and ignition problem.

Peder

[Borgward]

as Manuel proposes I would also choose VAPE setting no. 1 with an early ignition at 3000 rpm instead of 5000 rpm

[Anulu]

New Piston?

since?


how did you drive it?
,,Run it hard!" ?

did you do it all at once? Piston and ingnition?


Gruß Manuel ( fxxk googletranslate )


PS: for more power you dont need a R26 you need a S1000RR

[Pederkr]

New Piston?

since?


how did you drive it?
,,Run it hard!" ?

did you do it all at once? Piston and ingnition?




Gruß Manuel ( fxxk googletranslate )


PS: for more power you dont need a R26 you need a S1000RR

Piston like 1000 km
No i Drive carefully and no stress on the engine.
Yes Piston and ignition at the same time.

[Anulu]

vielleicht tragen die Kolbenringe noch nicht komplett. ich gehe davon aus das du die VAPE Grundplatte richtig montiert hast? ich glaube nicht das es an der Zündung liegt. hast du den Kopf auch noch überholt?

Viele mögliche Fehlerquellen auf einmal!


Und hier wieder google:

maybe the piston rings are not complete yet. I assume that you have correctly mounted the VAPE base plate? I do not think it's because of the ignition. did you even overtake your head?
Many possible sources of error at once!

[OldsCool!]

Hi,

a new Piston with new rings needs time to accommodate. In case of my handcrafted "Wahl-Piston" up to 3k or more kms. No stress to the engine is the wrong procedure, this way you'll never get the rings well done. Secret is as much stress as the engine can thermally survive. At the very beginning, friction is high and therefore switch from stress to relaxation needs to be often. But as friction gets less, run it hard!!
I still miss full power after more than 2000km, but it gets better the longer I ride (>100km which is regrettably rare).

BR
Steffen

[Pederkr]

vielleicht tragen die Kolbenringe noch nicht komplett. ich gehe davon aus das du die VAPE Grundplatte richtig montiert hast? ich glaube nicht das es an der Zündung liegt. hast du den Kopf auch noch überholt?

Viele mögliche Fehlerquellen auf einmal!


Und hier wieder google:

maybe the piston rings are not complete yet. I assume that you have correctly mounted the VAPE base plate? I do not think it's because of the ignition. did you even overtake your head?


Many possible sources of error at once!

New springs and spring plates for the valvet. I have retighten my head gasket 100 - 200 - 500 - 1000 km.
I did have some problem whit the vape ignition, the flywheel tents to move on the Konus of the "kurbelwelle" making the ignition timing wrong. This has now been fittet whit loctite, and i do not have this problem now.

I will try ignition setting number one again as you sugest, and rid whit higer RPM and see what hapens.
See you in 3 weeks time

[Pederkr]

Hi,

a new Piston with new rings needs time to accommodate. In case of my handcrafted "Wahl-Piston" up to 3k or more kms. No stress to the engine is the wrong procedure, this way you'll never get the rings well done. Secret is as much stress as the engine can thermally survive. At the very beginning, friction is high and therefore switch from stress to relaxation needs to be often. But as friction gets less, run it hard!!
I still miss full power after more than 2000km, but it gets better the longer I ride (>100km which is regrettably rare).

BR
Steffen

Wow
Iwill give the old horse a beating  taking care of heating and oil

[Anulu]

,,Run it hard" hurts in the soul but it is right.
the pole wheel or flyeheel did not stop on the crankshaft?
why not?
can it be that it has changed again?

(Google translate is funny )

[Pederkr]

,,Run it hard" hurts in the soul but it is right.
the pole wheel or flyeheel did not stop on the crankshaft?
why not?
can it be that it has changed again?

(Google translate is funny )

The model VAPE i bought is type 2 the one whitout woodroffkey ( in danish "not")
It seams some time in the past, the original part has been lose on the kugelwelle shaft. I think it is minus 0.1 m/m in some places.
I have put some carborundum on the shaft trying to combine the parts, and used loctite to lock it firmly.
I must check my base settings once in a wile.

[Herculestom]

Peder,

coming back to your initial question there are two ways to adjust your ignition system. The one uses the upper dead end of your piston as a reference. You cannot do anything wrong with that. The second one makes use of the marks on your flywheel. Doubtful, if your flywheel has for some reason moved on the crankshaft. Does your OT-mark match with the upper dead end of the piston? So if in doubt or you don't know 100% I'd recommend to go for option one. But this will not solve the problem that the flywheel is obviously moving on the crank. One day you'll have to fix it.

The system also offers to play with a number of advance settings. All of them will more or less work. My personal preference is to leave "F" at 9 degrees and reduce "F" to 34 degrees. 9/38 will work as well.

However, the first thing will be to adjust the ignition timing properly.

Good luck!
Tom

[Pederkr]

Peder,

coming back to your initial question there are two ways to adjust your ignition system. The one uses the upper dead end of your piston as a reference. You cannot do anything wrong with that. The second one makes use of the marks on your flywheel. Doubtful, if your flywheel has for some reason moved on the crankshaft. Does your OT-mark match with the upper dead end of the piston? So if in doubt or you don't know 100% I'd recommend to go for option one. But this will not solve the problem that the flywheel is obviously moving on the crank. One day you'll have to fix it.

The system also offers to play with a number of advance settings. All of them will more or less work. My personal preference is to leave "F" at 9 degrees and reduce "F" to 34 degrees. 9/38 will work as well.



However, the first thing will be to adjust the ignition timing properly.

Good luck!
Tom

Thanks Tom.
I did use option number 1, piston in TDC. I did have a problem whit the flywheel once but this is now fixed. I think i will go for the "Drive it hard for some time" whit the CDI set at 9/38 and see if there is any improvement.