r27 Electrics

Begonnen von Oxfordshire-John, 24 August 2021, 16:59:26

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Oxfordshire-John

There has been an amateur electrician at work inside my r27 things like "chocolate block" connectors, crimp terminals not put on properly etc. Some question please, should the front pilot be on when the main head light is on, or just when the side lights are on? Mine is on all the time. On the other hand the speedometer light only comes on with  with main beam.
How does the main switch come out. it's very difficult to see the terminals with it in place?
Is it possible to convert to 12V by changing the regulator? The one that's there was installed 20 years ago, electronics have moved on a lot since then.
Thanks

Oxfordshire-John



Eppo

Hello John,
beside a detailed description, pictures can say more than thousand words.
Maybe you can upload some pics.
Schematics and User-Guides are also a good source to help you.
You will find them down below under 'Handbücher'
https://cms.bmw-einzylinder.de/index.php/literatur/bmw-handbuecher-und-ersatzteillisten.html

Greetings
Geht nicht, gibt's nicht. Einfach kann ja jeder 😁.

Einzylindär

Hello John.

12V is not possible by replacing the regulator.
The 12V 3 phase alterator of the newer boxer engines from /5 generation on up to the last aircooled boxers fits with an adaptor and some other modifications to the R27. Then you have 12V and up to 280W.

best regards
Stefan, the one cylindrist

Oxfordshire-John



Wiring inside the head lamp, all a bit of a mess, connectors with nothing conned to them, wires going nowhere and the flasher unit just loose in the shell.

Eppo

If there is only such a mess in the head lamp I would go to label all known wiring cables to what the schematic show and then disconnect all and clean up the wiring in the head lamp with proper connectors.
What then left over can go to trash.
And for the so called "chocolate block" connector it looks like the wiring to the front beam lamp socket was too short and has been improved by adding some shorter pieces.
Greetings
Geht nicht, gibt's nicht. Einfach kann ja jeder 😁.

Taz

And while you are at it...once the inside is almost empty anyway, take a brush and paint it white...nothing fancy, any paint will do, but it will help along matters a lot in the future...
Ich hab noch nie einen Sarkasmus vorgetäuscht


auf Tour:

Zipfelreise (2019)
Cymru "Radnor Revivals" (2016)
Alba "Isle of Skye" (2013)
Austria Großglocknerhochalpenstrasse (2012)
Alba "Spittal of Glenshee" (2011)

cledrera

And the best way you can proceed is

1. old wires out
2. paint the lamp housing inside white
3. install new wiring harness (£53.53)

(without this prince of darkness connectors)
Du bist im Recht; nun sieh zu, wie du da wieder heraus kommst. (v. Chamisso)
Lieber Einzylinder als zwei Fallschirme (v. mir)

rolf.soler

#7
Zitat von: Oxfordshire-John am 24 August 2021, 16:59:26
Some question please, should the front pilot be on when the main head light is on, or just when the side lights are on? Mine is on all the time. On the other hand the speedometer light only comes on with  with main beam.
Depends. You can connect it in different ways. Officially, terminal 58 is for the rear stand (parking) light, 57 is for the front stand (parking, pilot) light and 56 a/b are for the main bulb ( a high beam, b low beam).
The switchboard in the head lamp has terminals 58 , 57 and 56. parking light wires 57 and 58 are wired to the respective terminals on the board - they illuminate if the turnkey is rotated to one side; ;if the key is turned to the other side, 57 has no current, but 58 and 56 have.
So, in one position the pilot light front (57) AND the rear parking light 58 are illuminated, but not the main beam bulb (daytime riding). In the other position , 56 (high or low beam) AND 58 gets current, the rear parking light and the main beam bulb are illuminated, but  NOT the pilot light 57 - for riding in the dark.
The tachometer bulb is connected to 56 - needs only to light up if it is dark...
So far so good...
Now at some time (I think sometime in the Sixties) it became mandatory in Germany and other countries (UK ? no idea...) that the pilot light ist also lighted when the main bulb is lighted...the reason was that in case of a burnt main bulb, at least the pilot light continued to give some light, to stop the vehicle safely (or drive home slowly and illegally...) and, above all, to remain visible for other drivers. Especially for cars it made sense for oncoming traffic to realize that this is a car coming, not a motorcycle, if one side headlamp bulb was out...
It never made much sense for motorcycles, because in case of a blown main bulb, you would realize that immediately and just turn the key the other way and have your pilot light on.
For that purpose, the front pilot bulb (wire 57) was simply connected to 58 instead of 57, then it is always on like the rear parking light, no matter if the key is right or left.
Some bikes came that way, others hat 57 to 57...an there are also official BMW wiring diagrams with both wiring options depending on the publication year...at least for the R27. In most circuit boards, 57 is just a  hardly visible soldering point. 57 ist soldered on. The wire goes just 10 cm to the pilot light bulb, and does not need to be detachable like 56 or 58 (to change the main or lightswitch harness)
I am pretty certain that in Switzerland it is no longer required to have the pilot light on when the main bulb is on in a motorcycle. All my bikes are connected with the pilot light on 57, i.e. it is off when the main light is on....saves a few Watts. Nobody at MOT ever reallized or complained. As far as I know, it is also no longer mandatory in the EU. but nobody seems to know, certainly not the guys at TüV (MOT)

So your bike is wired the second way, with wire 57 (pilot light) to 58, i.e. on all times (except in neutral position of the key). Thats OK, but you can change it to the old way, to 57, if you want. Then its out when the main bulb is on.
But your tachometer bulb is wrongly connected to terminal 56 a (high beam), probably on the bulb carrier ? Wire should go to terminal 56 on the circuit board, then its on in low OR main beam.

All clear....? :)



rolf.soler

#8
BTW, I also recommend to throw out all wires, buy a new R27 harness front part, with the proper colors; maybe also a light switch harness (4 wires) and a turning light switch harness (4 o 5 wires...depending on the switch type, Hella or Bosch...) and a rear part harness
Its no use to try and save money there. You need the proper wire dimensions, lengths and colours. Main harness costs around 70 € I think, others 10-25 €
Search for (or ask us....) for the proper wiring diagram for your R27 - there are several slightly different ones, depending on production year, turning light switch type and country of export...(e.g. the ones for Switzerland had no turning lights...)
If the original 6 V generator works, keep it ! Its original and quite valuable !
12 V ist not...and all the bulbs, regulator, horn etc. have to be changed. It's not brighter or more reliable...The R27 generator has enough power for a R27.  If you still want to change to 12 V, please sell me the 6 V generator....
Regulator: 20 years old electronics are probably better than modern Chinese electronic parts (and today ALL are Chinese). Don't change it if it works.  You can measure easily if it does what it should (see Lima dummie-test).
Same applies to condensator and coil. The original (R27) ones are nearly indestructible

rolf.soler

#9
BTW 2
Do NOT take the switchboard out of the lamp if not absolutely necessary. The keyhole assembly will fly all around your workshop...and the metal tabs for fastening the board back break easily. Better take off the lamp if you need a better look. Or use a headlamp and kneel down...Or use small mirror.
But to connect a new harness, take of the lamp, rip out all old wires, connect new harness proper colors to prober terminals following the instructions/wiring diagram , put the lamp back to the fork, and work from there backwards to the battery (with branches off to horn, generator, regulator and battery case

Oxfordshire-John

Thank you for all the advice. My next problem I think will be the carburetor, the original has gone, been replaced with a Bing type 53. (26mm)From a /5 twin I believe.

4Taktix

The bing 53 Type is a common replacement for the stock carb. They have a good reputation on the single-cylinders.
From technical point of view there's no need to swap back to stock.
See also attached list.

Regards,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

Oxfordshire-John

I have now rearranged my wiring so as the speedometer is lit all the time when the lights are turned on. Still need to tidy up the wiring to replace the incorrect connectors with type meant for vehicles not household wiring. Decided to leave the pilot light wired as it is, but have changed for a LED type ( brighter and uses less current that a filament bulb). Also changed the main and stop/tail to LED as well, should give the dynamo an easier time. LED lights do have a tendency to "flicker" at low engine speeds - something I have noticed before with  other  dynamo equipped machines - fine at normal riding speeds though. Need to go for a ride in the dark next to check and adjust as required the headlight, I will report back as to how I get on.
By the way, I think I have solved my carburetor problem, the idle jet was found to be blocked, cleaned and replaced, everything seems to be working as should now.

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