Rebuild Everbest Petcock

Begonnen von Kurt in S.A., 16 Dezember 2018, 12:32:56

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Kurt in S.A.

Can these petcocks be overhauled?  The one on my R25/2 is leaking around the handle plus it doesn't shut the flow of fuel off...it still drips a bit.

Thanks...Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A.


Kurt in S.A.

Borgward

that's normally no problem; just needs a new cork gasket under the handle

rolf

Nearly each dealer has this Gasket...a round corc disc with 4 (sometimes only 3....you dont need more  than 3 holes)

Kurt in S.A.

Thanks...I went to my usual source here in the US at Benchmark Works.  They said it is a waste of time and I should replace with a Karcoma which I have a spare one of those.  I would like to just do the rebuild but not sure where to get the cork.  What are some other sources?

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

rolf

#4
Waste of time? Nonsense!!
1. Price of gasket.....2-3 €, price of Carcoma.....25€ (all roundabout)
2. Time, to change the gasket.....5 minutes, to change the carcoma...20 minutes
I don`t know whre in USA ou will get the Gasket....in Germany nearly every dealer

RolfD


Borgward


Jollyjester

http://www.faak-tillmanns.com/shop/shpSR.php?p1=362&p2=457

As you have an original fuel tap, I would stay with it.

Do not buy a later one.

Look at the link above, this company, Faak-Tiillmanns specialize in carburetor and o fuel tap parts parts.  That is all

They also communicate to you in English.

You will see from their website, there are different thicknesses, of the cork seal to replace.

Which as others have said is a simple job,

I did this about 4-5 years ago, for the similar tap as fitted into my 1951 R25, an original import into the UK in may of that year. and

it seals perfectly

You can also download a very good diagrams, on the various carburetors, by specific model number with all the parts identified  down to the tiniest washer.

I can understand dealers  saying get and later tap, because the cost of that is enormous, compared to a tiny a cork washer, it is also easier for them of to take a new units off the shelf and post away.  The profit on a new tap would of course be much more than on a very cheap washer

Its business.

But for the sake of originality, buy the replacement cork washer.

The rear of my tap has some numbers and letters inscribed, obviously stamped at the time, but no one has been able to decide what they meant

Perhaps it was fuel flow, all the man who actually did it

The only thing with this company is, they do not take credit cards

I suppose that keeps costs down because of the charge by the card company

Have a good Christmas, and many happy miles in 2019

4Taktix

#8
Hey Kurt,
I'd check out, if I can get 3mm Cork-Sheeting (or particular thickness like old Gasket) in a local DIY-Store and make a new gasket, take the old one for Reference.
Do the holes with a correct sized punch, do not try with a drill bit. Put the new gasket 24hrs in Fuel to soak, or be prepared that it will leak a bit for the first few days.
Here's another "how-to", but I think the subject is slightly different.
https://bmw-einzylinder.de/forum/index.php?topic=8345.msg109347#msg109347

Good luck and remember the Alamo  ;)

Sascha
Think outside the box !

Borgward

 :kaffee: there is already a seal on its way :dance:

Kurt in S.A.

Thanks, Sascha!  I'll copy the info for the future.  But a Christmas angel has taken care of me already!   :juhuu:

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

rolf

And don`t forget to wipe a thin cote of Graphit on the gasket before putting it together...it will make the turning of the petcock much easier
Rolf

Kurt in S.A.

OK, it's done!  Thanks, Hubi!   :juhuu:  I pulled things apart and cleaned it up.  I ended up putting some Hylomar on the backside of the new cork along with some graphite on the lever-side of the cork.  It's a bit tighter to turn, but hopefully will ease up over time.

Put some gas in the tank and the petcock works...it was dribbling gas before.  But now I have a problem downstream.  I had replaced the washers at the banjo fitting that brings gas into the bottom of the float bowl.  It appears to be leaking at the top washer.  I might have used the wrong washer, or I might need to go cut my own that seals a bit better.

One step forward...and one step sideways!

Thanks guys!  Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Borgward

Congratulations, Kurt! :blumen:
A new (correctly fitting) washer will surely solve the problem.
Hubi

4Taktix

Hey Kurt,
ATTENTION: Don't overtighten the Screw (Float-bowl-bottom) - This may loosen the Brass-thread-insert and you might have a bigger problem than before.
Rather try and order the correct seal-washer, even if it takes weeks for shipping - take my advice for serious !

Good luck !
Sascha
Think outside the box !

Kurt in S.A.

Sascha -

I'm certainly being careful with the bottom of the carb.  I wasn't aware of the brass insert issue, but also didn't want to crack the banjo fitting.  I will take the carb off and look at things...as I said, I think I can make a gasket but will investigate.

Thanks...Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Borgward

Kurt,
a standard copper or fiber gasket in the correct size will do it (you can ask your plumber  :schrauber:)
Hubi

rolf

"tighter to turn"....the 2 screws are to tight....the hasn`t screw totally inside the body...only so thight as it was not leaking.....and not to tight to turn

Kurt in S.A.

Back at it again.  I had some thin cork (about 1.6mm) and some felt material (about 0.8mm), so I made a couple of gaskets.  I liked the idea of the felt material, so I trimmed one to fit.  Reassembled with some Hylomar on both sides and put more gas in the tank.  Things looked OK until gas started pouring out of the top of the carb.  Hmmm...I took the top off and things looked OK.  I left the cap off, held onto the rod the float rides on, and turned the petcock back on.  There was no gas coming into the bowl.  I put the top back on, but to no avail, the carb overflows...the float doesn't want to work on its own.  The float is a newer plastic one...11gr...new since March 2018.  Guess I'll have to take it all apart again and inspect the float needle seat as well as the float itself.  Maybe the float has failed again and started taking on fuel.

Some progress anyway.

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

4Taktix

Hey Kurt,
did you check the centerhole in the cap ? Often it is clogged and prevents the floatrod from lifting up high enough to close the bottom fuel valve.
Or else it could be that the float sticks to the chamberwalls, due to adhesion. I've never seen such plastic-float, does it have vertical fins on the outside,
or a ringfin ? anyway, there should be something to guide it without adhesion, to ensure the floatrod meets the centerhole in the cap.

Regards,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

Kurt in S.A.

Sascha -

I looked at the center hole and didn't notice any issues...haven't had anything like this until just now.  The plastic float is from Benchmark Works in the US...an aftermarket redesign to get away from brass which can crack over time.  The plastic float doesn't have any fins on it that I recall.  It does have a collar (ring fin) around the lower edge which sticks out beyond the walls of the float...that's probably there to keep the float centered in the bore.  I made sure that the rod was engaging the hole in the top of the carb as I slipped it on and tightened the screws.

I poked the float down when I first pulled off the carb top.  I was surpised how it didn't bob back to the top as quickly as I might have thought.  But it does still come to the top.  I'm sure the float is attached to the rod as required...two small spring wires grab the rod and snap into place once it is positioned correctly.

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

4Taktix

phew - then I'd measure the protrusion of the floatrod without cap, when you pull it up by hand, and compare the centerbore depth in the cap, related to the
seal face with gasket/seal-ring. Seems like this is gonna be a tough nut to crack.
Good luck

Sascha
Think outside the box !

Kurt in S.A.

Will do.  Good things to check.

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A.

OK, back to scratching my head.  I replaced the felt gasket with a cork one...I think that's going to work better.

I made the measurements and feel there is ample room for the rod to move into.  The rod sticks up 11.76mm when full.  The center hole in the cap is 20.1mm deep but subtracting the 5mm from the cap extension to the underside of the cap lip leaves me around 15mm...plenty for the 11.76mm.

I removed the float...weighs 11gr as advertised.  I polished the conical portion of the rod where it seats...there's some discoloration in one area but I don't think it's enough to cause a problem.  Made sure the float springs snapped into the spot on the rod.

I left the cap off and turned on the petcock.  Fuel came into the bowl and then stopped as seen in the picture.  I assume that's the appropriate amount of fuel.  I then installed the cap.  Petcock back on.  The carb overflows.  That was a repeatable experience.  I could leave the cap off and the float worked.  Put the cap back on and it overflowed.

I used a nail to stick up inside the hole in the cap...didn't feel any issues.  One thing I didn't try is to fit the rod into the hole.  When I had it all apart, I didn't consider that to be an issue.  Guess I have to go back and see how the fit of the rod is.  Something about the cap is a problem.  Why now and not at any time in the past 4-5 years.

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Morag

Failtè Kurt.

Erm-what about the tickler? Maybe there's something wrong with that? The fact that you do encounter the issue only with the cap in place seems to hint that the reason for this misbehaviour might be found there.

Just my tuppenceworth, Morag
My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here
My heart's in the Highlands, a-voiding the deer

Kurt in S.A.

Morag -

I'll have to check that.  The tickler button still works up and down.  But if it's protruding too far down, that would push the float down and cause the fuel to rise.  Will definitely take a look.   :schrauber:

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A.

Crud...just lost all of my posting because of an issue with the image upload...didn't realize that the names of the files uploaded can't be the same as previous.   :kopfhau:

Well, bottom line it was the "nut behind the wheel".  I followed up on the possibility that the extension of the tickler might be causing the problem...turns out it was.  But how could that be?  Then I wondered if I truly had the float at the proper spot on the rod.  I was able to push the float down the rod until the spring clipped into the proper position...verified visually.  The picture shows the fluid level about 15.5mm below the top edge...that doesn't conflict with the tickler when at rest, but is high enough that the tickler will still contact the float when it's pushed.

Put the cap back on and turned on the petcock...no leaks!   :juhuu:  So, now I need to find a time to get some gas back in the tank and take it out for a spin.

Thanks for the help!  Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Morag

#27
Failtè Kurt.

:applaus: Congrats for solving that mystery and thanks for sharing with us. So in the end it wasn't the tickler as such causing the problem but rather that wee little thing helping you to position the float in the right spot along the rod (where I would expect a groove for the float's wire spring).

Case closed, keep on  :bike:

Enjoy the upcoming weekend, Morag
My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here
My heart's in the Highlands, a-voiding the deer

Kurt in S.A.

Morag -

Exactly!  I assumed the wire spring on the float was engaging the small groove on the rod.  That's what I get for assuming...  :schimpf:

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A.

#29
She no go!  Spent about 30 minutes trying different amounts of tickle, throttle, petcock positions.  Couldn't even get a rumble from the engine.  I thought I used to know the "routine" on how she likes to be started.  But usually once you miss it, then getting back to square zero is hard.

Took off carb top...gas was nearer the top so tickle was working.  Took out the plug...cleaned it...strapped to side of case and saw a spark when kicking.  Came back inside for 10-15 minutes.  Tried again.  Finally got it to start after enough tickling that the gas began to seep out the top of the carb but it wouldn't stay running.  Not sure what's wrong...probably need to look at the jets again.  Arghhh!  Note that gas was purchased in late September 2018...I don't think gas is the issue, but I might have to remove that variable just to be sure.

It sure is tiring trying to kick the bike over, and over, and over...   :kopfhau:

Kurt
Kurt in S.A.

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