R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

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Borgward

Stimmt, die gehört genau da hin; ist aber eine Hupe vom VW Käfer. Die originale (Bosch) sieht aber fast genau so aus und ist gerade bei mir zur Reparatur
LG
Hubi

Borgward


grahamjb

I am re-assembling the gearbox.

New Bearings have been fitted - the Countershaft had a 6203 bearing and dodgy shims fitted instead of a 3202 which has now been corrected. Had to make up a tool to compress the Thrust Spring on the Countershaft so the snap ring could be removed followed by the bearing.

Hopefully tomorrow I will finish assembling the gearbox.

Photos below

grahamjb

More Gearbox Photos

grahamjb

Finished the gearbox today - Made new studs to hold the end cover plate on as the old ones had stretched threads and also had to adjust the neutral switch contact to ensure reliable operation.

BMW didn't make it easy to put the end cover plate back on because you have to tension the kickstarter through half a turn, heat the end cover up, fit the end cover over the studs and tap down the end cover then drive the Input Shaft bearing on a few mm; tap down the end cover, drive the Input Shaft bearing on a few mm and repeat until the end cover plate is seated on the gasket whilst holding the kickstarter under tension. The kick starter idler gear is what gets in the way in a similar way to when you want to remove the end cover plate.

Photos below

bwprice100

Looking good.

How did you manage with fitting the input shaft end disc, it gets in the way of the kick start gears.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Wlg6VsGLqa7oI6s2

Brian

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Herculestom

Hi Graham,

hope you didn't miss something. Unfortunately exactly this happened to me. Have a look at your picture "homemade studs". At the end of the shaft there is a spring (84) and a washer (35)visible. Normally there should be a another washer with a funny shape, a kind of a splash plate. You can see it under Literature, Bildtafel, Getriebe for the R 26. It is number 34.

Bad news?

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Thanks Brian and Tom for alerting me to a missing washer........my gearbox did not have one fitted but that is not surprising given what I keep finding on this bike.  :(

I will order the washer and a new gasket when I get back from the Mediterranean next month unless you know where I can buy BMW bike parts from in Turkey, Croatia, Malta or Santorini.

Getting the cover off and on is a pain with the kick start gear setup - I used a drift to drive the shaft out of the bearing when taking the cover off and another drift to tap the bearing on to the shaft as far is the kick start idler gear then tap the cover on a bit etc when putting the cover back on.

Have also noticed that the front cover for the engine has been welded in three areas.....

bwprice100

Sorry Graham. :(

When I fitted the washer on my gearbox (after a few failed attempts) I partially fitted the gearbox cover but left a small gap where I could a pair of tweezers and place the washer on the end of the shaft and then push the cover the final way home.

I don't know of any suppliers in those contries but it is only a few hours to fly to Uli's. :)

Brian

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grahamjb

Thanks for the reply Brian, this bike certainly keeps throwing me challenges

Herculestom

Graham,

you might find a BMW dealer in those countries, but I seriously doubt that they'll be able to get this washer for you in time. Unfortunately I did not put the dimensions on record.

I missed to install the washer for exactly the same reason. It was simply not there when I opened the gear box and I was too stupid to match my findings with the parts book. If you open and close the gear box a few times, you'll get used to it and you'll be able to do it in no time. After a while it'll become relatively painless.  ;D ;D ;D

Don't give up and carry on
Tom

umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Re-opening the gearbox and fitting the missing washer won't be an issue........I should have seen the washer on the exploded diagram and it is odd that sometimes you can't see something that is right in front of you.

We leave Australia tomorrow for 5 weeks and I will order the washer in a three weeks time so that it will arrive at the same time as when we get back to Australia.
I have noticed that Ulis sells one size washer whereas Salis has a range of washers that are different thicknesses - Did you guys measure and use a shim size one from Salis or did you use the one from Ulis?

Cheers
GB

bwprice100

I fitted the original washer and did make some measurements but it seemed as if the information was suggesting that there was no need to shim this shaft as it is able to float somewhat at the engine end.
I was a bit confused with this and as you say, Uli does not offer shims for this. In the end I checked there was clearence and left it at that and so far (300 miles) all seems ok.

I hope this helps.

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grahamjb


Herculestom

Brian,

did you ever get a proper explanantion as to why these washers exist in different thicknesses? I can think about it for the next 100 years and won't find a plausible reason.

Thanks
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

bwprice100

Zitat von: Herculestom am 20 Mai 2018, 18:20:57
Brian,

did you ever get a proper explanantion as to why these washers exist in different thicknesses? I can think about it for the next 100 years and won't find a plausible reason.

Thanks
Tom
I have two lists, one has list of things to do on your BMW single cylinder and the other list is full of life's mysteries.
:)

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grahamjb

I am back from looking at old rocks in Malta, Croatia, Turkey and Greece and have come home to some winter weather. It is going to be a miserable wet 18 degree today, brrr.

While I was away I got to thinking that since my rear brake shoes have been drilled for 4mm rivets which I can't seem to buy, I will try and make some. I made them from aluminium as I had some 6mm Al rod and it is easy to machine - Unfortunately I forgot to take photos while making them but can say with the first attempt, the 2mm hole was too small which caused the end of the rivet to split when fitted. I drilled the hole out to 2.5mm and all is now ok.

In the first photo you can see the split in the end of the rivet after fitting. The next photo shows me sanding the head down to the same thickness as copper rivets, photo three shows the home made rivets and the last two photos show the brake linings fitted to the brake shoes.

4Taktix

Hi Graham,
you should care for the slideways in your brakeshoes urgently! These grooves can "catch" the brakelobe - resulting in a stuck brake! Really not funny...
Best would be to get new brakeshoes, but as you put so much effort in these, I suppose you'd like an alternative solution.
It is possible to fit sheetmetal-linings - let's say min. 2mm thick, better 3mm - around the slideway-bosses, but they mandatory have to sit absolutely fixed,
no play at all. On your own risk ! ( I did so in the past for the limp brakes on my old crosser with the desired result )
If something is unclear due to my german-english, don't hesitat to ask.
(But it may take some time for reply, as I will watch our soccer-team's final chance to stay in the world-championship in 15 minutes )   ;-)
Keep going !
Best Regards,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

Herculestom

Hi Brian,

nice to hear that you made it back from the Osman Empire that is going to be a dictatorship soon. Hope you enjoyed Malta. Beautiful, isn't it?

Have you ever thought about the reason why brake rivets are typically made of copper and not of aluminum? There must be a reason. Don't ask ME why. I am stupid. Just a thought.

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Sascha
What do you mean by slideways?

Tom
Maybe when they started riveting brake linings copper was more common and malleable than aluminium? Copper has better heat transfer than aluminium and the differences between tensile and yield strengths wouldn't make a difference when used to hold brake linings on these little bikes.

Graham

Heiko

Hi,

copper has a higher tensile strenght than aluminium.... i think that is the reason and not what was more common... copper and aluminium were also both in use in the 50ies and earlier.


Heiko
Ariel motorcycles... upon which the sun never sets.

Herculestom

I was spontanously thinking about yield and shear strength. A feeling. But to be honest I would have to look it up to understand the realities. But I also have a strong feeling that you are right with the "little bikes".

I believe Sascha is talking about the contact area for the excenter on your brake shoes to open and close the brake. My own duplex-brake has a different design. So I can't send you a photo. The area is supposed to be flat. Yours look already pretty worn (last photo). Indeed dangerous, if the brake doesn't open anymore one day.

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

bwprice100

I think the higher melting point of copper is also a factor.

Probably not on a single BMW but on some  vehicles the melting point of aluminium could be reached.

Brian

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4Taktix

#232
Thanks Tom, you got me ;)  But what term do you use in an english/australian garage ?
I encircled this in red in the one picture. The other one shows the sheet-metal-lining I was talking about, but this one is factory stock, indeed no BMW,
just as an example.

Regards,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

cledrera

Moin (Good Morning) Graham,
please, be so kind and upload more pictures of the breakshoes.
I believe, there`s a crack, the upper one on the right side.
I also believe the notches are too big.

Thanks

Clemens
Du bist im Recht; nun sieh zu, wie du da wieder heraus kommst. (v. Chamisso)
Lieber Einzylinder als zwei Fallschirme (v. mir)

grahamjb

#234
Thanks for the comments fellas and there is no crack Clemens - what you can see is dirt that I hadn't cleaned off.

I will weld up the "scalloped" sections on the brake shoes and make them like new  ;D

Thanks for pointing out the problem - this is what makes this a good forum; sharing of knowledge and experience

Cheers

Herculestom

Graham,
sounds like a plan. Possible, but you'll still be sitting with relatively soft material in this area. A typical weakness of many of these brakes. The brakes of my DT and XT don't look much different. But your new brake shoes will most probably survive you. The more I think about it, the old brake shoes will most probably also survive you  ;D

Sascha,
agreed, Australian is one of the tricky languages  ;) But you don't want to hear what my brothers and sisters (Afrikaaners and black Africans) are producing in SA every day.
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Yep, the brakes will outlast me and the welded repair is stronger than the parent metal which I determined when hand filing the welded sections  ;)

Below is a photo of the welded brake shoes - just have to finish off with some fine filing and all will be good.


grahamjb

The postman delivered washer 34 yesterday afternoon and I fitted it today  ;D

Further to Brian's comment re fitting this washer; I put some oil on the washer and slid it into position under the idler gear and onto the bearing hoping that the viscosity of the oil would keep the washer in position. This worked nicely and the washer stayed in position when I held the cover upside down and it never looked like moving. If that failed I would have tried using grease.

First photo shows the washer in its correct location and the second photo is the gearbox reassembled.

grahamjb

I will be starting to put the motor together soon and decided to make up an adapter plate to hold the crankcase in my rotating engine stand. Made from scrap steel lying under the bench it is nothing flash. but it will make assembling the bottom end of the engine a lot easier.

Photos below

OldsCool!

Again nice one Graham! With regards to the upcoming tightening of the flywheell(-nut)  I recommend a fixation of such that leads the force directly into your holder, not via any housing parts.

BR

Steffen
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

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