R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

« vorheriges - nächstes »

0 Mitglieder und 1 Gast betrachten dieses Thema.

bwprice100

Hi Graham
I also found that the new clutch cable I bought from Ulis was too short. I was able to remove a few inches from the outer sleeve to get it to work but worried about it being non standard.
I think l have an original one somewhere so i will have to measure it.

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


bwprice100



grahamjb

Interesting comment Brian, I borrowed a new clutch cable today to check against my new one and it is identical to the new one and the one that was on the bike has a casing that is 75mm longer than the new one. My old brake cable casing is 50mm longer than the new one so it looks as though I will have to make some cables.

In between borrowing cables and looking after one of my sons two idiot dogs I didn't get a lot done on the bike.

I wasn't happy using nuts and bolts to hold the Power Dynamo Regulator and Advance Unit in place so I fitted some rivnuts (or clinch nuts) to the backing plate to hold these two items in position. I reversed the rivnuts for the Advance Unit so that the flush side of the rivnut was on the back of the backing plate to provide clearance for the rear mudguard. This had the advantage of of providing a 8mm stud length on the mounting side which compensated for the curve in the backing plate which was an expected bonus.

I had to extend the two Power Dynamo black AC wires so they were long enough to reach where I was mounting the regulator and that is all I managed to finish today.

All simple stuff and a couple of photos are below.

rolf

Graham,
do you a favor and take a long(er) nut for the valve cavers....than you haven´t to take away  your gasoline tank by inspecting the valve clearanc

4Taktix

Think outside the box !

grahamjb

I was going to put a standoff spacer on the rod and followed by the nut but the longer nut is a good idea and worth thinking about.

No work done on the bike today - I was busy converting an old car radio to AM/FM/Bluetooth/Handsfree which is a little sideline I do from time to time and also fixed a leak on the roof of my wifes home Hairdressing Salon that I built 25 years ago.

Talking about oils; what is everyones preferred oil to use in these old clunkers - good old fashioned mineral oil, four stroke motorcycle oil with additives or Synthetic oil and do you put the same oil in all three holes?

I think BMW recommended mineral oil for all three holes but in later years went to a hypoid gear oil for the rear drive unit and maybe the gearbox. Personally I like to use the same oil in all three holes and was thinking along the lines of synthetic or the four stroke motorcycle oil. What do you guys use and what are the pros and cons of each as you see it?

OldsCool!

Hi Graham,

due to the fact that we usually do not have an oil filter, we want to keep all residuals in the sump. Modern oils have additives that intend to keep all dirt floating to reach the filter and stay there. Not intended for us! Therefore, try to get an oil with least amount of additives/mineral. Similar for the gearbox and reardrive. Modern stuff will ruin the non-ferrous metals in our oldschool drive. I do not use hypoid oil, but the one Bernd has recommended as our "god of gearbox". If he does not comment himself, I'll look it up next week when I am back home from holidays.

BR

Steffen
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

4Taktix

Graham, just to alert you: By asking for oil-recommendations you hit a wasp nest !
This is the top fierce discussed subject ever !
One party is convinced of using single grade mineral oil (e.g. SAE 40) without any additives (due to Steffen's explanation),
the other party uses cheap, multigrade DIY-Store mineral oil ( e.g. 15 W 40) and argues: If the motor was rebuilt and clean inside ( the centrifuge on the crankshaft),
and with frequent oil-changes as recommended by BMW, you don't have to worry about floating dirt.
Then again we have some guys, which use high-grade synthetic oils....
hard to give a general recommedation - it depends on each individual engine-status, environmental conditions and driving style.
For my own experience, I started with multigrade, cheap DIY 15-W40 in the eighties, after the motor was rebuilt, then switched over to single grade SAE W40.
But it bothered me to remove the oil-pan every 2 or 3 oil-services to clean the inside off, and also this "compressor-oil" is very sticky, like hot tar.
It was no fun adjusting the valve clearance with everything sticking.
Now i switched back to 10-W40 since the last oil-service.
You can also use this for the gearbox and rear-drive, it woun't do no harm. But some say a GL3-specification gear-oil is better and appropriate for the latter two applications. We will see what the following posts recommend.

Regards,
Sascha
Think outside the box !

Anulu

I heard Oil.
Pleace wait! I need Chips an Beer....
Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

rolf

The rear drive is not a hypoid drive....GL 4 and higher have some additives which damages your copper, bronce (?..in German: Buntmetall) inside the gearbox and reardrive
I can recommend the Book: "which oil?"  from Richard Michell, Veloce publishing....after reading this book I was astonished that my knowledge about oil is not up to date( it is from the eightys...last century ;D)....before reading I said the same as oldschool
read this and find your own opinion....i am tired to say always the same about oil

bwprice100

Zitat von: rolf am 13 August 2018, 19:58:31
The rear drive is not a hypoid drive....GL 4 and higher have some additives which damages your copper, bronce (?..in German: Buntmetall) inside the gearbox and reardrive
I can recommend the Book: "which oil?"  from Richard Michell, Veloce publishing....after reading this book I was astonished that my knowledge about oil is not up to date( it is from the eightys...last century ;D)....before reading I said the same as oldschool
read this and find your own opinion....i am tired to say always the same about oil
Hi Rolf

Do you have a link to where l could get this book, is it in English?

Thanks Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


Schorsch

#310
Brian,

please excuse me, my Englisch is a Horror!

I have this Book in German.

In the Book is a notice

Originaltitel: ,,Which Oil ?"
Middle Farm Way
Dorchester DTI JAR
England



c Richard Michell Andy Veloce Publishing Ltd 2011

Schorsch
Früher war alles gut, heute ist alles besser.
Es wäre besser, wenn wieder alles gut wäre.
(Heinz Erhardt)

bwprice100

Zitat von: Schorsch am 13 August 2018, 20:44:52
Brian,

please excuse me, my Englisch is a Horror!

I have this Book in German.

In the Book is a notice

Originaltitel: ,,Which Oil ?"
Middle Farm Way
Dorchester DTI JAR
England



c Richard Michell Andy Veloce Publishing Ltd 2011

Schorsch
Thanks Schorsch

I have found it on Amazon and ordered the last copy. :)

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Yes, talking about oils is always a slippery subject and can lead to some robust discussions! I have enjoyed Veteran and Vintage engines and machinery for 50 years or so and have never come across an engine damaged by modern oils and sometimes wonder if it is all a marketing con, however I am always interested in other opinions hence the question.

To continue the oil discussion, I service a few Harleys for friends and HD recommend their own oil for the engine and a separate oil for the chaincase and gearbox.......but also say you can run a diesel oil in the engine......however they also recommend HD Syn3 (which is a blended mineral synthetic mix) for the engine, chaincase and gearbox; mmm different options from the manufacturer. Other guys I know run ATF in the HD chaincase and gearbox and others run a red heavy duty hypoid oil in the gearbox and all claim smooth gear changes etc. My own experience is that all HD's have a stiff clunky gearchange regardless what oil is used which tells me that the oil makes no difference and none of them suffer any damage and the engine runs hot whatever oil you use so who knows....all smoke and mirrors I reckon.

I use Penrite oils in my Stationary engines and 1926 Chrysler (before I sold it) and will probably use Penrite Classic in the R26 - I don't know if Penrite is sold in Europe.

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/brands/classic?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8nbBRBnEiwAqWt1zRYleTxizntuCCY3i3Ypi8JLsRAlsFnjvGX38FODzyjdUwuEIpQMtRoCj-sQAvD_BwE

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/community/posts/hughesy-and-039-s-tech-tip-penrite-and-039-s-vintage-veteran-and-amp-classic-engine-oils-part-2

I have also used Lucas oil which seems ok


grahamjb

I modified the headlight globe holder today and made up a new clutch cable to replace the new one that was too short.

There were two ways I could have gone to fit the H4 globe to the headlight reflector:

1. Drill a couple of small holes in the body of the H4 and hold it in place with a spring clip and lose the Park Light or;

2. Modify the existing base and keep the functionality of the Park Light

I went for option 2 which turned out to be pretty easy.

I removed the bakelite lamp contact board and cut out the lamp holder so that the H4 globe would fit inside the holder. The small side tabs on the metal base had to be cut out along with two small vertical slots cut into the bottom to allow the H4 base to locate and a tab cut into the top to accommodate the top H4 Tab and it was also necessary to bend the bottom tabs on the H4 globe to fit inside the original base. I bent the ends of a spring to lock into the small holes on the reflector where the original spring clip was fitted and the spring wrapped around the base of the H4 globe to keep it securely in place and soldered the  Park globe  into the original location. Wiring was simple with some 8mm spade terminals and a solder connection for the Park light.

grahamjb

These photos show the general wiring of the modified base, operating head light and current draw for the 60/55w H4 Globe.

4Taktix

Think outside the box !

Anulu

Ähh....

Hast gesehen, oder?



UPD,s haben immer 12V ( wenn der Regler nicht kaputt ist )
Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

4Taktix

Dödel ! 'türlich Ampere. Das kleine "A" im Display hab ich zwar nicht gesehen, aber dass Strom auf english "current draw" heisst, war mir klar.
Genau deswegen die Frage nach der Spannung. Eben um kurz zu überschlagen, ob so'ne Birne das "zieht", was draufsteht.
Nur UPD hatte ich nicht auf dem Schirm. Dann zieht das Fernlicht fast 70 Watt - siehsse !  da spielen wohl noch ein paar Übergangswiderstände im Schalter eine Rolle.
:-*

Sascha
Think outside the box !

grahamjb

Sascha - I have fitted a 12v Power Dynamo to the bike (it had previously been converted to 12 volt) and the globe is 55/60 watt hence the current draw shown.

grahamjb

The more work I do on this bike the more I am convinced it was, or is still owned by the devil.

Tossed a coin to see who should do the "Lining" on the mudguards and tank and decided that a professional would be better than yours truely. So I took the mudguards and tank off to a specialist signwriter who knows his stuff, does a fantastic job and is a nice person as well. Picked up the guards and tank today, and took them home and fitted the rubber knee pads and found there was an issue with the lines being too close to the rubber knee pad on the tank...argh....this was all my fault as I did not provide any measurements or supply the rubber knee pads with the tank and am cross with myself......some beers are helping me though. Fred has done a really good job with the Lining and I was conciliatory when I rang him to explain my F..k up. Fred was good about it and recommended that I remove the lining before it hardens and bring it back to him with the Knee Pads And the BMW Badges.

Some photos after half a bottle of wine with dinner and 6 cans of Emu Bitter ...ish....Photos Tank1 and Tank2 show the problem, Removing the pin striping is self explanitory, Tank X is with the lining removed after a few beers and the drivers and passenger side photos show the rear mudguard fitted.



bwprice100

That happens to us all Graham. :(

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Yeah I know Brian, but it still pisses me off when I make simple mistakes.... I suppose that demonstrates that we are human; time for another beer and then off to bed  :D

bwprice100

With regard to oils Graham I forgot I had this.

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


Anulu

 :applaus: Gibt es das in Deutsch? Wäre was für meine Werkstattwand  ;D

Is this available in german? That would be something for my garage  8)
Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

bwprice100

Zitat von: Anulu am 18 August 2018, 10:56:03
:applaus: Gibt es das in Deutsch? Wäre was für meine Werkstattwand  ;D

Is this available in german? That would be something for my garage  8)
I bought the original from eBay but never seen them in German.  Seen loads for old cars but this is the only one I have seen for a motorcycle.
I was thinking of getting some t-shirts made. :)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

That is a fantastic Servicing chart Brian and your idea of putting it on some T Shirts is a great idea.

Re the short clutch cable Brian, I measured a universal clutch cable type UC3 today and it is identical to the cable supplied by Ulis, so maybe that is why your clutch cable was short like mine

I took my tank back to Fred today to redo the lines and this time I fitted the knee pads and badges. After some deliberation I decided on where to to put the lines (Pinstripes) and if they are not as per the original layout I won't be redoing them. It was a PITA to remove them without damaging the tank paint and the more tanks I looked at, the more variation in the lines seemed to become the norm..... 

Got waylaid drinking beer when a mate popped over today however I managed to change the position of the PD kill relay and also ground off one of the corners of the PD regulator to make cable routing a bit easier. Should be able to finish off the wiring tomorrow and might even put some oil in the holes.

bwprice100

I got my tank and mudguards done at different times and when I got the mudguards back the stripe width and spacing was different from the tank but the guy who did it agreed to correct it.
After driving up to Birmingham to pick them up l was the victim of a road rage and end up in hospital with 4 stiches in my lip. :(

Does this beat your mishap. :)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Wow, road rage, hospital, 4 stiches...I can't beat that and I bet you remember the sequence of events with good clarity.

When I go to pick up my tank I will make sure I don't upset any road users  ;)

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 18 August 2018, 15:42:24
Wow, road rage, hospital, 4 stiches...I can't beat that and I bet you remember the sequence of events with good clarity.

When I go to pick up my tank I will make sure I don't upset any road users  ;)
LOL :)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Didn't get as much done today as I was hoping to do...fitted the front mudguard that took longer than planned and fitted the rear wheel.
I then removed the rear wheel to grease the wheel and drive hub teeth that I had forgot to grease, refitted the rear wheel, wired up the taillight and picked up my tank from Fred who had redone the lines.

Then a mate came over for a beer......enough said

Photo below with both mudguards fitted and the tank sitting on the frame

Similar topics (5)

Hauptmenü

Anleitungen & Bücher Baureihe Specials Startseite Vergleichsliste

Presse & Wissen

Bauzeiten & Stückzahlen Historisches Liste der BMW Modelle Presseberichte Prospekte & Plakate

Foren & Literatur

Bildergalerie Bildtafel-Suche Forum: Boxerforum Handbücher Servicedaten

Allgemeine Infos

Bildtafelsuche Glossar Impressum Kontakt Sitemap

Tipps & Service

Dienstleister Händler Märkte & Museen Tipps Verschleißteile & Werkzeuge