R26 Restoration by new member from Australia 2
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Autor Thema: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia  (Gelesen 6733 mal)

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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #90 am: 06 Februar 2018, 10:34:54 »

Pulled the other hub apart and found more than expected....part of a beer can used to shim the bearing cup!

Bearing bush is worn and bearing cup seems undersized
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #90 am: 06 Februar 2018, 10:34:54 »

bwprice100

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #91 am: 06 Februar 2018, 10:56:36 »

The beer can shim reminds me of the book, 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' .

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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #92 am: 11 Februar 2018, 08:34:44 »

I have obtained some local bearing shim material to replace the Pilsner Shim if necessary - see photos EE1 and EE2 below

I have finished welding the rim cracks and am now in the first stage of grinding the welds down before fine sanding and polishing; this is a slow fiddly job but the results are encouraging - have attached a couple of first stage sanding photos and will post up the finished results when done.

Am also still hammering/grinding/welding/hammering/grinding the front mudguard - will post up some photos when finished.

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #93 am: 11 Februar 2018, 08:37:58 »

Love the shim stock. :)

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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #94 am: 11 Februar 2018, 08:45:52 »

Decided to tackle the petrol tank and repair the dented side that has a poor previous repair and also repair the pin holes in the tool compartment.

The tool compartment pin hole repair is turning out to be a hard job because the steel is rice paper thin and holes appear instantly when the TIG gets near it ...argh!

Some photos of the damaged side section below and after cutting the section out, I was disappointed to find cracked, flaking petrol tank sealant inside that I will have to remove before welding the new side patch back in
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #95 am: 11 Februar 2018, 08:54:09 »

Before tiding up my shed I made up a new Clutch throw out lever pivot pin to replace the worn one that the bike came with.

The hole in the throw out lever was worn and I had to drill it out to 17/64 to get rid of the wear and checking the tabs on the gearbox shows similar wear. I turned down some 8mm stainless steel rod and made up a replacement pin 17/64 in diameter.
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OldsCool!

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #96 am: 11 Februar 2018, 15:55:25 »

Hi Graham,

again my big respect! Both for the DIY hands-on as well as the nice documentation and sharing with us!

Best regards,

Steffen
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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #97 am: 13 Februar 2018, 14:52:39 »

Thanks Steffan - here is what I did this afternoon

As you have probably gathered by now this bike has been flogged and is worn out so it should come as no surprise that the rear brake pedal is a sloppy fit due to excessive wear on the pivot pin and brake pedal. Every time I walk past the frame and see the worn rear brake pedal pivot I say to myself that I need to do something about it and today was the day.

I went around to a mates house and used his milling machine to bore out the hole in the brake pedal and the finished hole size is 15.5mm. After a quick beer I came home and turned down some brass to make a sleeve to fit over the worn frame pivot pin which I will fix to the frame pivot using 965 silver solder which makes for easy removal if the brass wears too quickly. I don't think the brass will wear very much as this bike will be used infrequently when finished, but I will have to wait and see.

The photos below tell the story
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #98 am: 13 Februar 2018, 14:55:13 »

A couple more brake pedal pivot repair photos
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Herculestom

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #99 am: 13 Februar 2018, 18:45:30 »

Graham,

well done. This looks very nice.

What you've actually done is to create a very good technical solution in this area by inventing that bush. Now you'll have a wear part which can easily be exchanged instead of wearing out the pin or bore in the pedal. I would have chosen bronze instead of brass, because of the higher hardness of the material. My personal opinion. But I agree with you. Under occasional use it is probably going to last for a long time. Pls make sure that the area will be properly lubricated at all times.

I have to reconfirm what Steffen said. Thanks for documenting and sharing this with us.

Super!
Tom

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #100 am: 14 Februar 2018, 03:08:29 »

Gidday Tom
I will be fitting a grease nipple to the pedal and yes, bronze would be a better choice, however I have no bronze  :(  but have plenty of brass in my shed which is why I made it out of brass.

GB
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #101 am: 16 Februar 2018, 11:44:54 »

Have been thinking more about what Tom said and have gone and obtained some Bronze rod and will remake my sleeve for the brake pedal.
Will post up photos of the Bronze sleeve once I have made it and in the meantime, below is a photo of the Bronze rod I now have  :)
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #102 am: 17 Februar 2018, 14:36:34 »

Made up and fitted the Bronze sleeve for the rear brake pedal today

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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #103 am: 18 Februar 2018, 14:30:35 »

I am still working on the front mud guard and rims and getting closer to finishing them which is a relief.

Decided to have a break and was looking at the hub which had the Pilsner bearing shim (while I was having a beer) and noticed that I hadn't removed the felt ring and holder from the brake drum side (Note: There were no felt rings fitted to the other side of either hub which is not surprising considering the general condition of this bike). Upon removing the felt ring I noticed that the washer or lip that the felt ring beds on was convex facing outwards and not flat like on the other hub. Temporarily fitting a washer and socket on the brake drum side and using a piece of brass bar, I tapped the lip flat and all is good now.

The pictures below show the process.

 
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #104 am: 18 Februar 2018, 14:43:57 »

Also reviewed how to fix the holes in the side of the petrol tank toolbox and have decided to Silver solder some tin plate inside the toolbox using low temperature 965 silver solder.

I have cleaned the damaged area and tinned it ready for some tin plate to be sweated over the top and plan to do this tomorrow.

The two photos show the cleaned area and the dull area in the second photo is the same area tinned ready for the tin plate.
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #105 am: 19 Februar 2018, 11:37:40 »

Didn't get much done today due to visitors dropping in.

I did manage to repair the Tool Box gash and pin holes and haven't finished off the repair as you can see in the photo below - I will dress the repair after I have welded in a new side section to the tank

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grahamjb

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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #106 am: 20 Februar 2018, 14:58:44 »

Did some more work on the tank after golf today.

The photos below show fitting up of the new section in the side of the tank and the final TIG welding - had some trouble with some thin sections of the tank that sneak up on you as you weld causing holes.

There are two low spots that have shrunk due to heat and I will see if I can push them out tomorrow.
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Re: R26 Restoration by new member from Australia
« Antwort #107 am: Gestern um 15:11:05 »

Have had the tank filled with GP thinners for the last couple of days to soften the previous tank repair liner along with a heap of nuts and self tapping screws inside the tank to assist the cleaning process when shaking the tank. This showed up a leak where the fuel tank cap seats on the tank (a low spot which I had caused when levering the inside of the tank to remove a dent) and two other weep spots close to the petcock after the tank had been full of thinners for 24 hours or so. The two weep points are where a previous repair is located and it was a simple case to repair them with 965 silver solder. Similarly 965 silver solder was also used to repair the fuel tank cap sealing ring.

At least my TIG welding on the side patch panel doesn't leak  ;D

Tomorrow I hope to apply KBS Fuel Tank liner inside the tank to provide a smooth, sealed internal tank surface.
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