R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

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bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 31 März 2018, 12:14:22
Brian
When you say right hand thread you mean a normal thread which you turn Counter Clock Wise to undo?

GB
Yes :)

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bwprice100


grahamjb

Brian
How much heat did you use; I am still having trouble removing the drive shaft using Stillsons and heat!

GB

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 01 April 2018, 15:06:53
Brian
How much heat did you use; I am still having trouble removing the drive shaft using Stillsons and heat!

GB
A fair bit but it was only a gas plumber torch but it destroyed the rubbers inside but normally these would be replace any way.

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grahamjb

Finally managed to remove the drive shaft after heating it red hot and using 2 x 18inch stillsons with extender pipes for extra leverage.

Had to cut of the splined nut that holds the drive shaft coupling gear as I don't have a spanner for that type of nut. The bearings seem to be ok so I am debating if I should replace them....I know good practice says to replace them but they don't seem to have any wear and may have been replaced previously.

Photos below

bwprice100

Great news Andrew.

I changed the bearings but I was more worried about the seals as they were hard and past their best. The brake side seal was of particular concern even thete is a small drain hole in tje casting.

I think BMW expect a regime of regular maintenance on the flexible gear arrangement and I used the small hole to inject extra grease into it.

Brian

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grahamjb

Brian
Did you use a special BMW socket/spanner for driveshaft coupling gear nut that has 12 splines or so on it?

Graham

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 02 April 2018, 14:38:49
Brian
Did you use a special BMW socket/spanner for driveshaft coupling gear nut that has 12 splines or so on it?

Graham
No I sacrificed it removing it and used a bit of split copper pipe around it to tighten it back up.

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Dappsull

that drive shaft needs to see a dentist ;^). Doesn't look as bad as mine, though.
D.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dapsul/23114550793/

bwprice100

Zitat von: Dappsull am 02 April 2018, 15:29:45
that drive shaft needs to see a dentist ;^). Doesn't look as bad as mine, though.
D.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dapsul/23114550793/
Dragons teeth. :)

I was lucky that l had a goid used one as new the two parts are ober £200.

I think the design was BMWs attempt at a constant velocity joint.



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grahamjb

Brian
Any idea why they use that type of nut? Would have thought that a castellated nut with a pin would be ok and nowadays a nylock might do the trick.

Also see what you mean about dry brittle seals in the diff unit - went to push out the big seal near the crown wheel and it split in two....was hard as nails.

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 05 April 2018, 14:40:36
Brian
Any idea why they use that type of nut? Would have thought that a castellated nut with a pin would be ok and nowadays a nylock might do the trick.

Also see what you mean about dry brittle seals in the diff unit - went to push out the big seal near the crown wheel and it split in two....was hard as nails.
To be honest Graham, l have no idea but there are a lot things BMW did on these bikes that I have no idea about, for example why design a drive shaft that is very difficult to lubricate?

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grahamjb

Have finally finished welding up the cracks in the rims, now I have the rotten job of smoothing the welds to make the rims look presentable.

After ordering a heap of parts I know know that BMW stands for "Break My Wallet"

Wales is doing pretty good in the Commonwealth Games Brian  :)

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 10 April 2018, 15:36:45
Have finally finished welding up the cracks in the rims, now I have the rotten job of smoothing the welds to make the rims look presentable.

After ordering a heap of parts I know know that BMW stands for "Break My Wallet"

Wales is doing pretty good in the Commonwealth Games Brian  :)
Yes they can suck money easily. When you come to think of a name for the bike you may bear that in mind. Bill Smithson has an R25/3 called Lottie.  :)

I've not been watching the games, I've been in my sick bed most of the week, but there have been some good results.

Keep up the good work. :)

Brian

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27-steib

sounds that have good fun with your beamers  ;)

grahamjb

#164
Before I start to reassemble the engine does anyone have a guide on assembling these engines that they would be willing to share with me.

The manual covers disassembly but doesn't seem to say much on putting it back together.

My two questions at the moment are :
1. Is there an easy way to set the valve/camshaft timing as the camshaft and crankshaft do not have alignment dots?
2. Is there anything specific I need to know when refitting the crankshaft such as case to crank clearance etc?

Have finished welding the wheels and loosely laced them with new spokes. Will post up some pictures after I fit the bearings and attempt to true the wheels.

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 12 April 2018, 11:14:23
Before I start to reassemble the engine does anyone have a guide on assembling these engines that they would be willing to share with me.

The manual covers disassembly but doesn't seem to say much on putting it back together.

My two questions at the moment are :
1. Is there an easy way to set the valve/camshaft timing as the camshaft and crankshaft do not have alignment dots?
2. Is there anything specific I need to know when refitting the crankshaft such as case to crank clearance etc?

Have finished welding the wheels and loosely laced them with new spokes. Will post up some pictures after I fit the bearings and attempt to true the wheels.
Cycleworks do some good videos. The presentation is not so good but the information is very good.

With regard the valve timing I used a timing disc.

Brian

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grahamjb

Thanks Brian I will check out the videos

grahamjb

#167
I was horrified at the price of new bearings here in Western Australia and wasn't too impressed with the prices from the specialist BMW suppliers as well, so I did a bit of googling and discovered Quality Bearings Online in the UK who have bearings at reasonable prices and ship them overseas with DHL.
Three days ago I ordered 2 x 6203C3; 4 x 6204C3; 1 x 6206C3; 1 x 6207C3; 1 x 6302 C3 and 1 x 6303 C3 FAG bearings for the princely sum of 58.81 GBP which is $107.88 AUD including postage to Australia and they arrived today which is Sunday, how good is that! Ordering and getting delivery in three days for a 14,600km journey is pretty impressive and FYI the price for these bearings from a local supplier was $230!

I decided to fit the bearings to the hubs and true the wheels today and thought it would be a good idea to use some bearing retaining compound to replace the "Pilsner Shim Stock" that was used previously to hold the bearing cups in position. After fitting the bearings and felt seals etc to the hub I realised that I had forgotten the spacer that goes between the outer edge of the inner bearing and felt seal on the brake drum side.....argh  :(. What I can say is that Permatex "Bearing Mount For Relaxed Fits" sets a lot quicker than the time they say and I had to press the bearings out using my hydraulic press as they would not budge when I tried to knock them out with a drift - Permatex is good stuff!

I only got one wheel done between other jobs and people dropping in to socialise on a nice 28 degree Autumn day and will do the other wheel tomorrow.

Also picked up the engine, gearbox and drive unit casings after glass bead blasting and they are nice and clean for the moment. I will high pressure wash and soapy water wash them to ensure there are no traces of glass beads left on the surface and they seem pretty clean as it is.

A couple of photos

Borgward

Zitat von: grahamjb am 15 April 2018, 14:14:30
I had to press the bearings out using my hydraulic press as they would not budge when I tried to knock them out with a drift - Permatex is good stuff!
really seems to be good stuff! I wonder if I can get it here in good old Germany...
According to their technical data sheet disassembly might have been done easier by applying local heat (>= 232°C)

grahamjb

Borgward
I didn't think that it was necessary to heat the thing up because it had only been in position for a few minutes and was surprised at how quickly the sealant set. Luckily my hydraulic press sorted it out  ;D

grahamjb

Nothing much to report apart that I am trying to true the wheels after respoking them and it is a prick of a job; sort of one step forward and two steps back!

Also took a break and went down south (about 200km) to watch the Margaret River Surfing Pro Classic and it got cancelled because a couple of guys got bitten by Sharks a bit further down the coast.... there are always Sharks on this part of the South West with the Whale and Salmon migration with the Leeuwin Current and I reckon the Pro Classic was cancelled because the Surf was rubbish and washed out so they used the Shark attacks as an excuse!

Some parts from Ulis arrived  ;D

bwprice100

Yes it made the BBC news.

I saw this on the BBC and thought you should see it:

Australian surf event cancelled after shark attacks - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-australia-43805292

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grahamjb

Thanks for the link Brian, it pretty well sums up what happened and Sharks are something we seem to do well in Western Australia, mind you our coast is 12,500km long so there is always going to be something in the water looking for a feed. The two Brazilian guys in the surf classic probably won't be back in the WA waters anytime too soon and they will miss some good surf.

Finished truing one of the wheels today

grahamjb

House maintenance has got in the way of the R26 over the last few days however I found time to fit the headlight brackets.

I only had one steel spacer ring so decided to turn some up out of some scrap brass.

Photos below

grahamjb

I made a rivet setting die for the steering damper friction plates and brake linings today.

It is a simple setup consisting of a rivet setting die and post to locate the rivet head on. The die and post are set up on the pedestal drill press and by pulling down on the pedestal head lever, the rivet is crimped into position.

Photos below of the two friction plates riveted to the steering damper plate.

bwprice100

I have to do mine again. The friction plates are very brittle and I put a small crack in one. :(

Brian

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grahamjb

Brian,
Can you glue up the crack? I wouldn't think a small crack would have much of an affect on the the bikes steering - my bike only had one friction plate fitted when I pulled it apart!

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 25 April 2018, 16:24:19
Brian,
Can you glue up the crack? I wouldn't think a small crack would have much of an affect on the the bikes steering - my bike only had one friction plate fitted when I pulled it apart!
I did think of that but l have the part and l am concerned that something might come adrift and jam up the steering.
I'm some work on the bike in a few weeks to fit the new head and piston, plus other work so will do it then.

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grahamjb

Brian - Where is the horn mounted on your R26?

Mine was mounted on the steering damper which had been bolted to not turn (only one friction plate). See First photo
There is an unused hole at the top of the frame where the horn could be mounted hanging down under the tank (inside the two halves) The hole is marked with green tape in the second photo.

Your comments (or anyone else) would be appreciated
Thanks GB

bwprice100

Zitat von: grahamjb am 26 April 2018, 14:39:33
Brian - Where is the horn mounted on your R26?

Mine was mounted on the steering damper which had been bolted to not turn (only one friction plate). See First photo
There is an unused hole at the top of the frame where the horn could be mounted hanging down under the tank (inside the two halves) The hole is marked with green tape in the second photo.

Your comments (or anyone else) would be appreciated
Thanks GB
My R26 came with the original Bosch/Klaxon horn fitted to a curved piece of flat bar welded to the underside of the frame top tube/front gusset. With the tank in place it fits their neatly, all be it a tight squeeze.
In the following pictured you can see the bracket with a temporary squeak horn fitted.

https://goo.gl/photos/T7sd6d4S26LZjnoNA

When fitted the Klaxon there were a number of thin plates fitted as sub bracket which l assume isolated the horn from vibration.

Item 2 here

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0T14-EUR-03-1958-T26-BMW-R26&diagId=61_1209

I hope this helps.

Brian

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