Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 19 Januar 2017, 20:37:05
I bought a replacement saddle and understand there are "fun times" getting the new one installed. I've seen a few approaches, but once I removed the saddle from the frame on the bike, I wasn't expecting this. I was prepared to build a frame around the seat so I can pull the front and back apart.
How do I proceed? Probably the best thing to do is cut the old one off? It's torn on the top side...the reason for the replacement. I was expecting a 3-point attachment, two in the back and one in the front. But there are two attachments up front.
It looks like I also have to cut holes in the new saddle where the interior frame bolts come out at the rear...I guess just do that by eye?
Thanks...Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 19 Januar 2017, 21:13:25
Just cut it off the frame....then the frame can be taken apart (massive round material in front, the two mounting flaps can be turned to allow the new saddle to be mounted) and a tube part at the back, the rubber saddle should have two very thin sections at the appropriate locations that you can cut with a sharp knife (or a small pair of scissors)...
The rest is muscle or makjng use of an old car jack....see tips and tricks....
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 19 Januar 2017, 21:50:02
Thanks, after some poking around I found the tips and tricks. I had seen that before...I'll have to think about modifying what I was going to do.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 19 Januar 2017, 22:15:02
Don't mention it...in case you woud need further input (e.g. detailed pictures or translation service) please don't hesitate to let me know... pity that you're across the Atlantic....if you would be somewhere around here I would offer to take care of this task for you as well...but postage might be a bit too expensive...
Kind regards, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 20 Januar 2017, 00:01:58
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 20 Januar 2017, 09:35:24
Beitrag von: Herculestom am 20 Januar 2017, 20:02:07
I don't know how far you do understand German. 10 or 15 years back I have described the procedure here:
http://www.herculesig.de/frame.html
Forum / Tips und Technik / Fahrwerk (Gabel, Stoßdämpfer) / Pagusa Satteldecken aufziehen
I am not sure, if your single seat is of the same design. Just cut the old rubber away and see how it looks inside. Most probably you'll find two pieces of steel inside that keep the rubber tensioned (finally assembled). Photos of your saddle design (inside) will definitely help. Then I can give you more advice. Fact is that this is a purely mechanical exercise. Pls stay away from heating the rubber or any other funny tips. You'll just have to find a way to tension it to connect the two steel parts. Manually you're not going to make it. You need some force. A little bit of liquid soap or something similar will be helpful to bring it into the final position. Afterwards rinse to get rid of the soap. Again, some photos. Then I can think about how to put it together. The steel parts might connect differently.
regards
Tom
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 20 Januar 2017, 20:29:21
I've seen that website before...I've been using each of these sites to formulate a plan. I plan on building a 2x4 box to which I'll attach various hold downs to begin the stretching process. I like the idea of a scissors jack...I will use that from my Toyota. I just want to be sure it doesn't go "sproing" on me and fly across the room!! I will cut away the old saddle...I'm just a little cautious about doing it, but I know it has to be done. I can then post some pictures.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 20 Januar 2017, 21:25:54
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 20 Januar 2017, 22:54:26
Sorry....doc appointments and not enough fun at the moment... you are on the right track, these straps (one will be enough, btw) have to be turned.....see picture. If both seem fixed it's down to too much paint or rust and age....apply oil and maybe a rubber mallet....I have come across similar frames, in the end I always found that at least one of the straps could be convinced to move....
when inserting the front part of the frame into the rubber seat (I prefer to insert this part after the back bow) it pays to use some liquid soap or rubber care spray (like "armor all", don't know what the stuff is called in the US as Germans tend to have the funniest ideas of how to adapt English names of things...imagine a "handy"-local name for a cell phone...or a "body bag" for a certain type of backpack) ... without some lubrification it's almost impossible to get that thing into position...a common lament ;)
Good luck, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 20 Januar 2017, 23:08:15
Thanks...I haven't tried that hard to move the straps, but will look at them closer. We're getting a bit of sun these days, so I'm hoping to take advantage of that and do the work of stretching with the sun beating down on the seat.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 20 Januar 2017, 23:18:25
Having the rubber heated up by the sun won't do the trick, I am afraid. The original howto mentions boiling water (and carefully avoids hinting to blistered hands)....a few ideas of how to do this without major burns are found here: http://bmw-einzylinder.de/forum/index.php?topic=8379.0 ... the text is German, but the pictures in the second half of the article speak for themselves....
When inserting the front part of the frame the trick is to bend the top front part of the rubber in form to align with the frame...I usually insert it with the bow pointing in the wrong direction and the flip it once it's inside the rubber....again...lubricate...
Good luck, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 21 Januar 2017, 00:24:47
I don't see how the boiling water is going to have a sustained effect. It would seem that by the time it's removed from the water and the metal parts are inserted, along with installing it in whatever frame for stretching, the whole affair is going to substantially cool down. ???
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 21 Januar 2017, 01:01:00
Precisely my point re. the hot water .... I think that the idea with the hot water would be that this allows the rubber seat to be fully mounted without the aid of any mechanical devices.... whenever I replaced a rubber saddle I completely skipped the heating process and went straight for the mechanical part....I am using an old VW beetle's jack with some weld-ons as sbown in the last four pics of the article mentioned above....it took a kind of evolutionary process to find the optimal setup, but now replacing a seat rubber is usually done in less than fifteen minutes.....
Kind regards, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 21 Januar 2017, 22:38:59
Not sure I can get there....
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 21 Januar 2017, 23:14:57
You're almost there.... lubricating and bending the saddle rubber nose in form to fit the frame should do the trick....if only the Atlantic wouldn't be so wide I come over and give you a hand....
I keep mt fjngers crossed....all the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 21 Januar 2017, 23:37:32
I actually thought about that...I noticed the curve on the old saddle. I've tired myself out, so I guess I'll regroup maybe tomorrow. I don't have the stamina I used to! ;)
Wish me luck! Kurt
Beitrag von: Jollyjester am 22 Januar 2017, 10:25:57
Fitted the 2 frames inside the rubber cover. Have to make holes for the 2 rear fittings and one at the for the pivot.
I bolted a steel /wooden bar across the rear 2 studs, and piece of steel to the pivot. That was to clamp in the vice.
Using an old car jack, standing on the vice, I used it to push up the curved part. It went far enough to clip in the 2 parts. Place the unit on the floor, stamp with foot and clicked into place. Have set it up, it took about 5 minutes to fit.
I did warm the rubber in hot water, and apply washing up liquid inside to help it slip.
Beitrag von: † Will am 22 Januar 2017, 11:30:34
Beitrag von: Taz am 22 Januar 2017, 12:02:43
Depending on how urgent this task is...you can send the parts to me or you can bring these to the Edersee....if I know about kne or more of these jobs I will bring my equipment with me and assemble the seats then...
Kind regards, Taz
Beitrag von: † Will am 22 Januar 2017, 14:06:23
Zitat von: Taz am 22 Januar 2017, 12:02:43Hi Ute,
Hello Will.
Depending on how urgent this task is...you can send the parts to me or you can bring these to the Edersee....if I know about kne or more of these jobs I will bring my equipment with me and assemble the seats then...
Kind regards, Taz
Many thanks for your kind offer. If I haven't fitted the new cover by the 1st June I will let you know and bring the seat to the Lake.
Kind regards.
Bill.
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 24 Januar 2017, 21:21:01
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 24 Januar 2017, 21:29:19
sad to hear this...if it weren't for the comparatively high weight I'd offer you to send me the parts and I would assemble iy for you....if you are willing to spend these bucks my offer's valid.
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 24 Januar 2017, 22:31:49
I'm still on step one...getting the two parts of the frame inside the rubber saddle. I'm wearing my hands raw trying to slip things in. I was close, but the orientation of the front frame plus the two tabs are presenting what I think multiple problems and I just can't get the front hoop to slide into place. This is really wearing me out.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 24 Januar 2017, 23:45:44
Ok...I will have to charge my cell before I can have a go at creating a series of pictures for this task....I will post it later on..stay tuned.
kind regards, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 25 Januar 2017, 01:39:04
Kurt
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 25 Januar 2017, 14:54:43
As for connection the two frames, he described a very simple process which doesn't involve much stretching as I've read about. Basically, it involves using a steel angle iron to screw to the rear attach bolts. This angle iron is then secured to a vise with the top of the saddle facing up. Then grabbing the nose of the saddle, the rubber is bent up to near 90 degrees with the two ends of the front frame being fed into the rear frame. Then with some effort, the nose is lowered while feeding the front frame further into the rear frame.
A key aspect of this is that the male ends of the front frame need to be chamfered so that it will more easily start into the female end of the rear frame. That seems critical given the angle that the front frame is initially bent to...having the chamfer lets it work into the hole on the rear frame.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 25 Januar 2017, 16:50:19
Re the insertion of the front part of the frame I will have another, hopefully more successful go tonight... yesterday evening my back did hurt too badly for doing this....sorry.
Kind regards, Taz
Beitrag von: Taz am 26 Januar 2017, 02:10:34
Now...at last...how to with a few more and hopefully clarifying pictures.
Note up front...I use the Armor All Original Protectant for lubricating the rubber wherever any of the frame parts needs to be inserted, but generally all rubber-friendly lubricants may be used...without any of these the task will fail almost 100%.
Pic 1 shows the frame put together so you can get a good idea of the orientation of the two parts.
Pic 2 first insert the back (female) part of the frame...pretty self-explaining
Pic 3 Turn the flaps of the front frame part out and lay the front (male) part of the frame on the seat rubber (for orientation)
Pic 4 Start sliding in the front frame part into the seat rubber
Pic 5 continue ...
Pic 6 Front frame part inserted completely
... to be continued
Beitrag von: Taz am 26 Januar 2017, 02:20:38
Pic 8 done...turn the flaps again and ...
...connect the two frame parts...either with any of the methods/tools described in the tips section or via the method the Michigan guy told you....sounds like a valid way of doing it, but the new rubber seats tend to be pretty strong so it may require some power nonetheless.
good luck, I keep my fingers crossed, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 26 Januar 2017, 02:28:08
The last two pictures are the key. You had mentioned inserted the forward frame "backwards" and then flipping it. I briefly tried that but wasn't able to complete it...I'll have to consider that again. Thanks for taking the time. I hope to talk to the Michigan guy today or tomorrow and see what his suggestions are.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 27 Januar 2017, 01:05:26
When it comes to the "flipping" thr trick is turning the front part of the frame with one hand and bending the rather stiff front part of the rubber saddle with the other to help the frame with sliding in place....and every ° in temperature will count...instead of having a go in the cold garage trying to finish the job in front of a roaring fire place will certainly help...
Good luck, Taz
Beitrag von: Anulu am 27 Januar 2017, 07:35:08
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Beitrag von: 4Taktix am 27 Januar 2017, 10:28:29
Ließe sich höchstens noch durch ein Youtube-Filmchen übertreffen :D
Gruß,
Sascha
Beitrag von: Borgward am 27 Januar 2017, 10:39:12
Zitat von: Anulu am 27 Januar 2017, 07:35:08
Geile Anleitung!
Am besten in "Tipps und Tricks" verlinken - dann findet man die Anleitung bei Bedarf wieder (im englischen discussion forum sucht man doch nicht so schnell)
Beitrag von: Taz am 27 Januar 2017, 11:30:29
Viele Grüße, Taz
Beitrag von: Anulu am 27 Januar 2017, 13:18:37
Zitat von: Taz am 27 Januar 2017, 11:30:29
Deutschland braucht sich aber keiner schinden....siehe mein Angebot im Mitgliederbereich....
Viele Grüße, Taz
Aber wo bleibt dann der Spass
???Übrigens sehr geil deine Sattelarmbrust
Damit geht das bestimmt in unter 2 Minuten ohne sich die Finger aufzuhauen, und das ganze Geraffel in einem Wutanfall an die Wand zuklatschen ...
Aber ich denke auch das es nicht schlecht wäre, die Fotostrecke aufzunehmen.
Beitrag von: Karl am 27 Januar 2017, 15:03:40
Zitat von: Taz am 27 Januar 2017, 11:30:29
Wenns für Karl ok ist können wir die Bilder ja an den scbon bestehenden Artikel zum Thema Sattelbezug anhängen...
Na kla rist das ok. Hast du Zugriff auf die Rubrik "T&T"?
Die Idee mit dem YouTube-Video find ich übrigens hervorragend! ;D
Beitrag von: Taz am 27 Januar 2017, 15:06:58
Ja, geht...ich habe es als eigene Antwort drangehängt, wenn Du magst kannst Du den Text ja in den Originalbeitrag einfügen.
Liebe Grüße, Ute
PS: Filmchen wäre auch nett, aber dann müsste es den ganzen Weg zeigen und ... wer gibt den Darsteller?
Beitrag von: Anulu am 27 Januar 2017, 19:52:09
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Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 27 Januar 2017, 20:39:40
Well, this is where I'm at. I had some help...a burly guy and me. This seems to be as far as we could get. The "bending and fold" technique I mentioned above just wasn't going to work. Too much distance to make up. I'm going to build a fixture and wait for some sunshine to warm things up a bit.
What a PITA!! :kopfhau:
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 27 Januar 2017, 21:00:31
The German was not relevant for this task...just a wee bit of tittle-tattle...
I am very happy for you that you have succeeded with inserting the frame into the rubber seat as such...connecting the two parts of the frame isn't all that difficult and using a proper tool will always mean that you can leave out the heating-up-the-rubber-and-burning-your-fingers part...
Inserting the frame is 50% experience, 40% lubrication and 10% power ;D
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Anulu am 28 Januar 2017, 08:00:06
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 28 Januar 2017, 12:43:59
Kurt
Beitrag von: † Will am 28 Januar 2017, 13:37:56
Zitat von: Kurt in S.A. am 28 Januar 2017, 12:43:59I also have the urge to fabricate a stretcher frame with some steel flats and angle iron from my stockpile.
Yes, I've visited the Tips and Tricks. I will be fashioning something along those lines to stretch the saddle onto the frame. I'll wait until I can get a day with some bright sunshine to help out.
Kurt
Like Kurt the weather needs to be a lot warmer before I venture out to the workshop.
Whatever I eventually come up with, I'll post on here probably after my impending cataract operation.
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 28 Januar 2017, 20:15:51
I was going to try and put a sleeve around the rear frame bolts so the load is not right on the threads. But still worried about the tendency to bend the bolts that stick up out of the frame.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 28 Januar 2017, 20:48:06
If you have a closer look at my assembling tool (as shown in the tips article mentioned earlier)- adapted VW beetle jack that looks like a crossbow with the empty frame attached-thus the nickname Pagusa-crossbow-details shown on the last four pictures of Karls initial post of that thread.
(https://bmw-einzylinder.de/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bmw-einzylinder.de%2FStart%2Ftips%2Findexm%2FSatteldecke%2Fwagenheber_v2_04.jpg&hash=c700512120d81eb5e0b3ebe2f5099bb122747051)
That one has seen (and assembled) at least a score of seats in the last years...all of them mounted to the angle steel at the bottom of the jack with precisely the two bolts of the back part of the frame and using some rope to pull the front part until the two parts can be joined.... there was never a problem re. the bolts and as the angle steel only connects to the 3 or 4 mms of the threads closest to the rubber this won't affect the usability of the threads at all...
Don't worry and start welding :)
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 28 Januar 2017, 21:04:29
Kurt
Beitrag von: Herculestom am 29 Januar 2017, 05:55:18
here seems to be the difference between cowboys and bushmen. While cowboys will think about a way to bail out, we'll maak'n plan. ;)
Don't even think about buying a new saddle. You are almost there! You now know the two crucial elements, to bring the front part in and turn it by 180 degrees and then the mechanical stretching of the complete unit by probably less than one inch. I can only motivate you to just do it. At the end of the day it is going be "your" old saddle on the bike. Pls don't give up, be a bushman.
Good luck!
Tom
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 31 Januar 2017, 21:36:50
Anyway, I managed to reach this stage where the stretching has begun. But I'm seeing a problem in that because of the attachment to the bracket on the front frame, the rear end of the frame is getting higher and higher. This makes it impossible to slide the rod ends into the holes in the rear frame. Not sure how I'm going to deal with that. I can use my hand to hold this down but it takes more than just one hand...have to turn the stretching rod at the same time.
Tomorrow is supposed to be warmer with lots of sun. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 31 Januar 2017, 23:07:00
Not bad...if you don't mind I would suggest two minor changes.
1. instead of pulling at the flaps try a sling on the frame itself, just where it disappears into the rubber at the "nose" (red)....that way the front part will be easier to navigate.
2. make a solid floor to the box at the rear part and clamp down the rear part with a 2x2 with two strategically drilled holes for the bolts and two clamps....use some old towel to avoid damager to the rubber...
Apart from that your tool looks pretty good, it should be able to do the trick.
Good luck and I will my fingers crossed.
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 31 Januar 2017, 23:35:47
Thanks. As I've thought about it, I need to stiffen up the nose attachment. I'm using s-hooks which lets the tabs rotate freely. The hooks were easy to use...I'll need to cut a piece of metal to bolt to the tabs which I'm hoping will help rotate it back into plane.
Not sure I understand your other suggestion. ???
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 01 Februar 2017, 00:11:52
Sorry, there seem to be a few misunderstandings...the nose attachment won't need stiffening up, the suggestion to use a sling will just allow for the same amount of free "rotation" as your hooks do...but e.g. the usage of a piece of strap will make the pull bite closer both to the front and to the center thus reducing the tilting moment on the front part of the frame substantially...this will keep the ends of this frame part way further down than pulling at the flaps will ever do...
Second suggestion comes from my misunderstanding about which ends are moving into a wrong direction...the idea behind that was to keep the back part of the frame in a fixed position so you will only have to deal with the front part.
Sorry, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 01 Februar 2017, 00:50:06
OK, that makes sense on the tilting. I'll have to get something else to make the sling.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 01 Februar 2017, 17:46:01
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 01 Februar 2017, 18:39:32
Sorry to hear that....would you like to be more specific or are you so frustrated at the moment that you are seriously considering buying a new Indian and make that old beemer take a 30-year barn nap?
Don't give up, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 01 Februar 2017, 18:44:19
Basically, the tilting of the front frame was not affected by the wire-rope sling I used as you suggested. So, I'm going to cut a piece of metal to bolt to the two tabs and have a hole to which I can attach my stretching hook. As I look at all of the other suggestions in Tips and Tricks, they have a solid connection to the front tabs. The loose connection that I tried with the S-hooks and the sling don't help or control that tilt. So, I'll try something else.
This is getting pretty frustrating. If this doesn't work, I'm not sure what I can do.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 01 Februar 2017, 18:55:00
Would you mind posting a picture of your sling attached? True, even the pics of my tool show a fixed front frame, but the last ten or so saddles have been done with just a piece of strap attached as drafted in my last pic and although that didn't eliminate tilting completely it did reduce it to an amount that was could be handled...maybe it helps to know that I never let the front frame tilt much, I use one hand to control tilting as much as possible so it won't stand up too far if at all...with your tool it might come handy to have a second pair person available...isn't threre someone around who might want to earn that extra pint?
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 01 Februar 2017, 21:29:18
Sorry, I didn't take a picture of that. It was just a small piece of vinyl-coated steel cable which I wrapped inside the rubber and the two pieces on each side were tied together with wire clamps.
I've just now converted to my latest setup...attached. Sad to say, it's just not working. The front frame still flips up high in the air. I don't have ready access to a spare set of hands. I've been getting some assistance from my old place of work. I'll take it back tomorrow and see what can be done. Today was going to be the day...bright sun and 80F outside. Tomorrow cooler.
I'm about ready to throw in the towel. :P
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 01 Februar 2017, 21:43:28
If all else fails send the parts to me (address via pm) and I'll do it for you....but before that J will have a gk in my garage and set up a saddle with a the tools attached... might take a few minutes....please stay tuned...
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Taz am 01 Februar 2017, 22:14:41
Please find attached the pictures
1. saddle and frame just mounted to the tool...as mentioned just a piece of strap I use now. One thing...my car jack usually allows a travel of some 6 inches from this position to fully stretched-which more often than not will not be sufficient due to stretching of the strap and the tilting...in these cases I have to relax the tool and re-knot the strap...
2. frame just connected...the final inserting usually requires both hands and a knee (to keeop down the frame)
3. shows the strap part in detail so you can see where I attach it to the frame...
I hope this helps...in case you still are fed up to the back teeth with this my offer is stillopen to you....better than to throw all that fine material into the garbage can....
Keep :schrauber:, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 02 Februar 2017, 19:20:34
In my view, there is no way this is a one person job. I guess others have done it solo. But it's taking two of us and leaning on this pretty hard.
One thing that I'd like to know. The front frame ends that get inserted into the rear frame holes...is there supposed to be some spread to those ends? In other words, in their natural relaxed stated, is the distance between the rods ends more than the distance between the rear frame holes? In my case, they are, meaning that they must be squeezed together before inserting into the rear frame holes. I don't know if the front frame was stretched somewhere along the way, but that is certainly an extra variable I'm having to deal with.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 02 Februar 2017, 20:11:52
Never give up... that's the spirit....usually both frame parts should align properly when not under external tension..as all that stuff is more than 50 years old it might just as well be that one part of the frame got that extra force sometime. You may want to try bending it a wee bit back together so it will slip more easily into the back part...
Good luck, Taz
PS: I am assembling the saddles always on my own, but I have gathered some experience.... ;D
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 09 Februar 2017, 18:52:23
It's taken me so long to do this, I hope I remember how it goes back on the bike!! ;D
Thanks for all the help and encouragement.
Kurt
Beitrag von: † Will am 09 Februar 2017, 20:17:23
Well done on a successful outcome. :applaus:
Beitrag von: Taz am 09 Februar 2017, 22:10:04
:applaus: good job.... enjoy the summer with a whole new riding comfort :bike:
All the best, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 09 Februar 2017, 22:39:26
Kurt
Beitrag von: rolf am 10 Februar 2017, 11:12:44
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 19 Februar 2017, 17:46:03
A question...it seems that my butt was rolling to the back...sitting a little lower. I already have the bolt in the under seat adjustment in the lower hole...that should create the most tension. Is there anything else I can do? I noticed a big nut on the forward side of the spring...can that be tightened to add more stiffness? Or could the spring be sacked?
Thanks for the help! Kurt
Beitrag von: rolf am 19 Februar 2017, 19:12:07
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 19 Februar 2017, 19:53:51
Thanks...I'll check it out.
Kurt
Beitrag von: Taz am 20 Februar 2017, 22:11:02
To add a bit more clarity to Rolf's explanation...
(https://bmw-einzylinder.de/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=15956.0;attach=56536;image)
In the picture the parts marked as "A" serve to adjust the seat to the rider's weight as you have already found out...I think I can recall something like top-most hole for some 60kg, lowest for 100kg....roughly...
The parts marked as "B" can be used to adjust the position of the seat to meet your requirements (e.g leg length)...
Have fun, Taz
Beitrag von: Kurt in S.A. am 20 Februar 2017, 22:22:08
Hmmm...seems like A is as you say with the hole farther down will pull the spring more in order to counteract the additional weight. But what if the rear edge of the seat is tending to dip down already? Will B help to pull the rear of the seat up in the static position?
Kurt
Beitrag von: rolf am 20 Februar 2017, 22:24:21
Yes
Beitrag von: Taz am 20 Februar 2017, 23:04:52
As Rolf wrote...yes...the plate attached to the spring has a thread that holds the big screw in "B"....the further in you screw that screw the higher up the rear end of the seat will come....
Kind regards, Taz
Beitrag von: rolf am 20 Februar 2017, 23:11:42
YES ;D...after the question: " Will B help to pull the rear of the seat up in the static position?"