R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

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grahamjb

Pulled the other hub apart and found more than expected....part of a beer can used to shim the bearing cup!

Bearing bush is worn and bearing cup seems undersized

grahamjb



bwprice100

The beer can shim reminds me of the book, 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' .

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

I have obtained some local bearing shim material to replace the Pilsner Shim if necessary - see photos EE1 and EE2 below

I have finished welding the rim cracks and am now in the first stage of grinding the welds down before fine sanding and polishing; this is a slow fiddly job but the results are encouraging - have attached a couple of first stage sanding photos and will post up the finished results when done.

Am also still hammering/grinding/welding/hammering/grinding the front mudguard - will post up some photos when finished.


bwprice100

Love the shim stock. :)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Decided to tackle the petrol tank and repair the dented side that has a poor previous repair and also repair the pin holes in the tool compartment.

The tool compartment pin hole repair is turning out to be a hard job because the steel is rice paper thin and holes appear instantly when the TIG gets near it ...argh!

Some photos of the damaged side section below and after cutting the section out, I was disappointed to find cracked, flaking petrol tank sealant inside that I will have to remove before welding the new side patch back in

grahamjb

Before tiding up my shed I made up a new Clutch throw out lever pivot pin to replace the worn one that the bike came with.

The hole in the throw out lever was worn and I had to drill it out to 17/64 to get rid of the wear and checking the tabs on the gearbox shows similar wear. I turned down some 8mm stainless steel rod and made up a replacement pin 17/64 in diameter.

OldsCool!

Hi Graham,

again my big respect! Both for the DIY hands-on as well as the nice documentation and sharing with us!

Best regards,

Steffen
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

grahamjb

Thanks Steffan - here is what I did this afternoon

As you have probably gathered by now this bike has been flogged and is worn out so it should come as no surprise that the rear brake pedal is a sloppy fit due to excessive wear on the pivot pin and brake pedal. Every time I walk past the frame and see the worn rear brake pedal pivot I say to myself that I need to do something about it and today was the day.

I went around to a mates house and used his milling machine to bore out the hole in the brake pedal and the finished hole size is 15.5mm. After a quick beer I came home and turned down some brass to make a sleeve to fit over the worn frame pivot pin which I will fix to the frame pivot using 965 silver solder which makes for easy removal if the brass wears too quickly. I don't think the brass will wear very much as this bike will be used infrequently when finished, but I will have to wait and see.

The photos below tell the story

grahamjb

A couple more brake pedal pivot repair photos

Herculestom

Graham,

well done. This looks very nice.

What you've actually done is to create a very good technical solution in this area by inventing that bush. Now you'll have a wear part which can easily be exchanged instead of wearing out the pin or bore in the pedal. I would have chosen bronze instead of brass, because of the higher hardness of the material. My personal opinion. But I agree with you. Under occasional use it is probably going to last for a long time. Pls make sure that the area will be properly lubricated at all times.

I have to reconfirm what Steffen said. Thanks for documenting and sharing this with us.

Super!
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Gidday Tom
I will be fitting a grease nipple to the pedal and yes, bronze would be a better choice, however I have no bronze  :(  but have plenty of brass in my shed which is why I made it out of brass.

GB

grahamjb

Have been thinking more about what Tom said and have gone and obtained some Bronze rod and will remake my sleeve for the brake pedal.
Will post up photos of the Bronze sleeve once I have made it and in the meantime, below is a photo of the Bronze rod I now have  :)

grahamjb

Made up and fitted the Bronze sleeve for the rear brake pedal today


grahamjb

I am still working on the front mud guard and rims and getting closer to finishing them which is a relief.

Decided to have a break and was looking at the hub which had the Pilsner bearing shim (while I was having a beer) and noticed that I hadn't removed the felt ring and holder from the brake drum side (Note: There were no felt rings fitted to the other side of either hub which is not surprising considering the general condition of this bike). Upon removing the felt ring I noticed that the washer or lip that the felt ring beds on was convex facing outwards and not flat like on the other hub. Temporarily fitting a washer and socket on the brake drum side and using a piece of brass bar, I tapped the lip flat and all is good now.

The pictures below show the process.


grahamjb

Also reviewed how to fix the holes in the side of the petrol tank toolbox and have decided to Silver solder some tin plate inside the toolbox using low temperature 965 silver solder.

I have cleaned the damaged area and tinned it ready for some tin plate to be sweated over the top and plan to do this tomorrow.

The two photos show the cleaned area and the dull area in the second photo is the same area tinned ready for the tin plate.

grahamjb

Didn't get much done today due to visitors dropping in.

I did manage to repair the Tool Box gash and pin holes and haven't finished off the repair as you can see in the photo below - I will dress the repair after I have welded in a new side section to the tank


grahamjb

Did some more work on the tank after golf today.

The photos below show fitting up of the new section in the side of the tank and the final TIG welding - had some trouble with some thin sections of the tank that sneak up on you as you weld causing holes.

There are two low spots that have shrunk due to heat and I will see if I can push them out tomorrow.

grahamjb

Have had the tank filled with GP thinners for the last couple of days to soften the previous tank repair liner along with a heap of nuts and self tapping screws inside the tank to assist the cleaning process when shaking the tank. This showed up a leak where the fuel tank cap seats on the tank (a low spot which I had caused when levering the inside of the tank to remove a dent) and two other weep spots close to the petcock after the tank had been full of thinners for 24 hours or so. The two weep points are where a previous repair is located and it was a simple case to repair them with 965 silver solder. Similarly 965 silver solder was also used to repair the fuel tank cap sealing ring.

At least my TIG welding on the side patch panel doesn't leak  ;D

Tomorrow I hope to apply KBS Fuel Tank liner inside the tank to provide a smooth, sealed internal tank surface.

grahamjb

While the epoxy fuel tank liner is drying I decided to tackle the rear mudguard which had a lot of rust on the tail light wiring conduit fitted to the inside of the mudguard.

It didn't take long to grind out the old conduit and I made up a replacement using some copper water pipe I had lying around. This will be soldered and fibre glassed into position and will be better than the original one when finished. There are a lot of holes to fill in the rear guard as well.

Hopefully will get a bit more done in the next day or so.


grahamjb

Have nearly finished the rear guard and spent part of today filling holes and pinholes with lead, replacing a damaged lower section of the guard and finishing off the new conduit inside the guard.

A couple of progress pictures attached and I will l post up the finished results in a few days after I finish off some jobs around the house.

grahamjb

#110
Didn't get much done on the bike today because of jobs around the house and playing golf.

I put a bit of filler on the tank and repaired the dented left hand rear shock tower with some lead - see picture below. I still have to finish dressing the welds on the top of this shock tower as it was suffering from radial cracks.

grahamjb

Got stuck into the Tank and guards today finishing them off with 2 pack Polyester Spray Putty. They still have to be sanded down, primed and then finished with a top coat but at least the hard part of repairing them is finally over.

I still have to fit the knee pad holder to the left hand side of the tank and this will be done after the final sanding before priming.

Some photos below just after spraying the Polyester Spray Putty.

grahamjb

Finished the remaining Polyester Spray Putty Left in the can today and finished repairing the radial cracks on the left hand rear shock tower. Also tidied up the damaged area on the frame and Sikaflexed the left hand knee pad holder on to the tank.

The next job will be mind numbing boring sanding before undercoating these bits and pieces with 2K primer.

Herculestom

Graham,

I'm following your restauration, your challenges and solutions with great interest. Unfortunately I couldn't contribute much so far. The whole thing is obviously documented very well. I can only recommend to put it onto a piece of paper one day and send to Karl to publish your restauration story on our homepage. Otherwise all your experience in restoring this bike and all the effort you put in will be lost and others can't benefit from it. Carry on, looks very promising!

Best regards from the African bush
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Thanks for the kind words Tom - I am thinking of doing a trip to South Africa in the next year or so (or when I have finished the R26) so we might be able to catch up for a beer & talk about old Beemers  :)

Didn't get much done today because I had to work on my older sons 4WD and my daily driver sprung a major oil leak plus the auto gear selector lost a nut which gave me a headache when picking up parts for my son's 4WD.....bad day at Black Rock as they say.

Have finished sanding down the polyester filler on the tank and the front guard which has come up a treat after a lot of work and will hopefully finish sanding the rear guard tomorrow; and will be applying 2K high build primer tomorrow provided nothing gets in the way. I will apply the high build as wet on wet which will minimise sanding before applying the top coat.....if all goes well...

Since I don't have any bike photos for today, attached is a pic of my daily driver that has decided to dump oil on the driveway and stop me working on the bike argh!

OldsCool!

Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

Herculestom

Graham,

welcome at any time. Just let me know when or if you need advice while planning the trip.

I'd call this a very extraordinary bakkie compared to Hilux, Ranger and Co which you see on the roads here in SA. Very cool!

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Thanks for liking my 1955 International Harvester Coupe Ute Steffen and Tom, there are not many left on the road in Australia.

Put some dark grey 2pack primer on the various bits and pieces today and they have dried nicely in todays 36 degree temperature.

I won't be doing much on the bike over the next few days due to other planned activities.

A couple of pics of the bike bits drying on the clothes line and then back in the shed.


OldsCool!

Awesome garden decoration  ;D
I guess you took care on covering all bearing seats and snug fits (e.g. rocker) to not paint them as well?

BR

Steffen
Ich bin auf dem Dorf aufgewachsen. Ich wurde nicht erzogen, ich habe ÜBERLEBT!

grahamjb

Yes Steffen, all bearing surfaces were masked off.

Now to sand all the surfaces smooth before top coating

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