R26 Restoration by new member from Australia

Begonnen von grahamjb, 01 Oktober 2017, 06:42:07

« vorheriges - nächstes »

0 Mitglieder und 1 Gast betrachten dieses Thema.

|

grahamjb

I have finally painted the bike parts...it took me all yesterday to sand down the primer which also necessitated drinking beer because it was hot  ;D

Unfortunately I have a paint run in the tank and the rear guard which is because the spray gun I use has the spray pattern fan knob close to the handle which I occasionally knock with my thumb changing the fan pattern to a more direct stream and hence more paint....and in the sunshine you don't pick up the different spray pattern .....which is more paint causing the run etc...all my fault, but I feel better tonight after some wine and more beer  ;D.

Hopefully the runs will dry out tomorrow and I can fix them on Saturday before I go off to Bali for a few weeks.

There will be no new posts for a few weeks as I will be drinking Bintang in Bali with my sons and their girlfriends to celebrate my wifes birthday  :prost: :saufen:

Attached are some photos of todays spray painting

grahamjb


grahamjb

I am back from Bali and it is time to do some more work on the bike.

Decided to fit the Centre Stand and new springs; and on checking the stand bushes, I confirm they are worn out so it is time to make some new bushes.

Found a couple of old 3/4" high tensile bolts that are a perfect fit through the Centre Stand bush holes, so it is a quick job on the lathe to make some new bushes using the old bolts.

Photos below and the next page


grahamjb

The springs for the Centre Stand are hard to stretch so I set up a turnbuckle in the vice to stretch the springs and inserted washers to lengthen the spring before fitting to the bike.


grahamjb

Fitting Steering Head Taper bearings

Has anyone done this and if so, did you fit grease seals?

Thanks
Graham

27-steib

Hi Graham,
I can't remenber what Kind of Seals I mounted on the Steering, maybe Fest Washers.

The Foto of your frame looks funny, I hat to look at it several times- it is so smooth, that it looks chrome plated- fantastic job!

Best regards

Jan

grahamjb

#125
Jan - I wasn't happy with the rear foot peg angle and have bent the foot peg mounts on the frame to get them horizontal and when I started to colour sand the frame I found some thin paint areas so I am going to repaint the frame and then it will be really smooth and shiny  ;D

Even though it is Autumn it was 37 degrees in Perth today which translates to about 43 degrees in my shed......since it was too hot to paint I decided to pull the engine apart.....it is in a sorry state.

It has been fitted with an aftermarket 12 volt Magneto/stator which is rough as guts and I am surprised it works; the flywheel nut is damaged and was loose (there was no locking washer locking tab), the piston wear is noticeable along with a scored bore. There are visual indicators of rough treatment all over the engine  :( and it has an asbestos clutch plate as well.

Some photos with more tomorrow as it is past my bed time

bwprice100

It is very important that the flywheel runs true so worth checking with a DTI.

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Thanks Brian, the crankshaft has seen some hard days and the conrod has flogged itself so badly that I will have to replace it. I don't have a press big enough to pull the crank apart and will have to take it to a specialist for checking/rebuilding  :(

Some more engine pictures

rolf

Good grief....comes the BMW from Romania?

grahamjb

I don't know where it came from Rolf but the engine is in poor shape that is for sure, like the rest of the bike..........at least no fins are broken on the barrel or head  ;D

rolf


grahamjb

The crankshaft is now apart and it is beyond repair.
The crank itself has been previously welded and poorly ground, the conrod has been fitted with a sleeve to fit the crankshaft pin and it has been centre punched to hold it in position but is now very loose and the crank bits are badly worn....

bwprice100

That looks bad, make one on your lathe? :)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

The photos don't really show the damage Brian and the crank has obviously been apart more than once with the multiple welds on it. The centre punching on the conrod to hold the sleeve in place is very detailed but now useless as the sleeve spins freely inside the conrod; the wear on the crank from the conrod flapping around is substantial (crankwear2 jpg) and the crank pin is scored as well.

I have decided to buy a new one and a secondhand flywheel as well because the flywheel has been welded previously where it locates on the crank. I could re-weld the flywheel and turn it down on the lathe but I am reluctant as the previous weld is not good and I don't want to open a can of worms.

FYI the head isn't too bad and just needs new valves and valve guides which is refreshing

bwprice100

A good solution. :)

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

I bought some taper bearings for the steering head and they are not narrow enough for the forks to bolt up correctly.

The photo names pretty well explain things and for the record this how went about resolving the matter.

The first photo shows the bearings that I bought on ebay and the next photo shows how high the bearing and cup sit proud of the steering head. This means that the Earles fork legs are lower than the triple tree and I would have to fit spacers or find another solution. Photo 3 shows the gap between the top of the Earles fork legs and the bottom of the triple tree and which measured at 1.8mm. If I removed the dust seal from the bottom bearing the gap dropped to 1.3mm.

More on the next post

grahamjb

I want to retain the bottom grease seal so I decided to enlarge the seal to fit the outside bearing diameter so that the bearing would sit on the bottom of the steering stem. This will gain me 0.5mm.

I used a die grinder to enlarge the seal and then cut out the inner rubber ridge on the seal leaving the outside ring to act as a dust and grease seal. Photos "Seal1 and Seal2" show the seal(s) that are supplied with the bearings. "Seal modification1" photo shows the seal after the die grinder action, the "Seal Mod2" photo shows the modified seal with the inner rubber ridge removed and the last photo shows how the seal fits over the bearing.

More in the next post

grahamjb

All that to gain 0.5mm but it was worth the effort to keep the bottom bearing grease in, and dust free.

The next step was to mill 1.3mm from the small ridge on the underside of the triple tree and all should be good. Interestingly, when I set up the triple tree on the mill, I zeroed the end mill and discovered the paint and primer was 0.38mm thick before I hit metal which was good news because I wouldn't be removing as much metal as expected.  :). The first photo shows the milled underside of the triple tree and the second photo shows no gap between the triple tree and the Earles Fork legs.

I was happy with the finished result and thought a wide washer under the Fork bolts would look nice so I drilled out a couple of 8mm SS washers which look good in position. See the last two photos

Herculestom

Brian,

so far, so good. You know that the taper bearings require a longer guidance of the inner race by the steering head nut??? The original steering head nut must be modified (prolonged) a bit at the bottom end to enable that. If I remember right some 4 or 5 mm. I'll try to find a drawing or sketch for it. I sent you an email. Unfortunately I can't post photos through the forum.

Regards and have fun
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Tom sent me some good photos on how to modify the steering head nut so I will so do that over the next few days.

In the mean time I started to pull down the gearbox which was not as easy as expected as I discovered that you have to drive out one of the shafts from a bearing before you can remove the gearbox cover. Initial observations is that two of the bearings are rumbly but the gears and other bits look to be in pretty good shape apart from a few butchered screws.

UPS delivered a Powerdynamo today that I ordered last Thursday to replace the home made one fitted to the engine and it is a nice piece of kit. I like the option of being able to run the bike without a battery as it won't be ridden all that often, and I won't have to maintain a battery  :)

Some photos of the gearbox and Powerdynamo

Herculestom

Hi Graham,

doesn't look to bad at first sight. Bearing rumble? Just change all of them. All bearings in the gearbox are standard bearings which is not the case in the final drive. There you'll probably find two "BMW" needle bearings. Pretty expensive. One advice: do yourself a favor and test the function of the neutral gear switch before you finally close the gearbox. I must admit that I missed this, but I was lucky. The switch worked.

You will love the 12 V Powerdynamo stuff. Great quality and easy to install. I also ride my R 50/2 and the XT without batterie, but I have put a capacitor into an emty batterie housing. You should remember one thing. In some countries it is a legal (saftety) requirement that the parking lights are fully functional, even if the engine is off (e.g. Germany). I don't know for Australia. Just a remark.

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Tom
Hopefully the gearbox will only require bearings and a couple of new selector fork plate screws and some bead blasting to get it looking and working as it should  :) The neutral switch check will be done for sure.

I like the build quality of the Powerdynamo (I am an Electronics Engineer) and FYI in Australia we don't have the same rules around the parking lights. Out of curiosity did you fit a capacitor for filtering/smoothing or was it for some other reason and what value to you use?
GB

Herculestom

Morning Graham,

1. smoothing
2. 22.000 microF

regards
Tom
umuntu ngumuntu ngabantu

grahamjb

Thanks Tom

I modified the steering head nut today as per Tom's drawing....my finished product made by welding an extension from a piece of water pipe I had behind the shed is not as nice as Tom's, but it does the job  ;D

Photo's below

Anulu

Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

grahamjb

Mate
Your English is 1000 times better than my German  ;D

Anulu

Gruß Manuel



Rock or Bust!

grahamjb

Not much progress today....I seem to be stuck removing the drive shaft which won't budge.

I have the original multi language workshop manual and it says that you unscrew it using mantra tools 506a & 494 which I don't have of course. I made up a similar looking tool that engages with the nut and tried to turn the shaft with a BFS but it wont budge.

Any ideas on how to remove it will be eagerly tried


bwprice100

Hi Graham

I failed to get mine apart, even with the special tool.
In the end l removed the studs and used a stiltson and heat to get it apart, by the way it is a right thread.
I had to buy a new nut and the rubbers.
Here are some photos of mine.

https://goo.gl/photos/LoxFUYYt6UqvafAfA

Good luck

Brian

Sent by me using tapety talky


grahamjb

Brian
When you say right hand thread you mean a normal thread which you turn Counter Clock Wise to undo?

GB

|

Similar topics (5)

Hauptmenü

Anleitungen & Bücher Baureihe Specials Startseite Vergleichsliste

Presse & Wissen

Bauzeiten & Stückzahlen Historisches Liste der BMW Modelle Presseberichte Prospekte & Plakate

Foren & Literatur

Bildergalerie Bildtafel-Suche Forum: Boxerforum Handbücher Servicedaten

Allgemeine Infos

Bildtafelsuche Glossar Impressum Kontakt Sitemap

Tipps & Service

Dienstleister Händler Märkte & Museen Tipps Verschleißteile & Werkzeuge